Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

My parents recently bought an r34

it has a hornet alarm system, which them nor i know how to operate

apparently its a 717m or a 718m or a 719m.

The remote has to buttons the first has a number one on it the other, number 2

any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183199-hornet-717m-or-718m-or-719m/
Share on other sites

ok do this:

split the remote open take a snap of the internals front & back - from there I'll get you a proper users guide and service manual for it.

no offence but how will that help?

are they similar to the viper alarms of something

will do shortly

Edited by R32_R34
remote as requested

suc50233copyeg1.jpg

By r32_r34, shot with < Digimax U-CA 5, Kenox U-CA 5 / Kenox U-CA 50 > at 2007-09-03

ok. 717. pm me an email addy and I'll send you what I have.

button one arms / disarms.

now if the red light is on it is in valet. under the dash you will see a pushbutton switch. hold that in turn the key on and release. light should go out. turn key off , remove, close car, press button should get a chirp. now if you are relying on that for security and insunace - run with your idea.

for some reason hotmail does not like me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...