Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, well heres the story, i need to know where i stand when i call them on monday.

im with h2p insurance, i called them to ask them not to take the money out on wednesday cause i didnt get paid until thursday, so the months insurance money wouldnt be in there, they said they changed it to friday and it was all good. now i only notcied this yesterday nite that they had taken the money out on wednesday, so i was now in about 20 DR. (i was then given a 30 "installment fee" the bank calls it)

and this morning while checking my account i couldnt work out why i was in 140 DR. they had taken out more money on friday!!!!!!

please help i need to know where i stand on this i know they are at fault cause they had lied in saying that the insurance would be taken out on the friday, when it wasnt, and i made it perfectly clear to the girl i was speaking too that the money would not all be in there on wednesday.

so if the bank ends up charging me another $30 for the second payment that they took out that $60 in total in fees that they have caused.......

do they have to pay it???

im really pissed off at the moment about this becuase it is not fair that i should have to pay for their stupitidy

help needed!

thanks

i would ring the insurance company and explain the whole situation. Be cool, calm and collected and pretend that its a wierd occurance and you are usually happy with their service. People tend to help you out then. also, mention you were looking at your statement and noticed two withdraws within 2 days, both incurred an overdraw fee. They will most likely credit you a months insurance. The key is, to be cool calm and collected and be 'on their side'.

well this is the first time something like this has happened, its just annoying cause i dont have the 140 something dollars to put in the account to put it in back in credit :rofl:

i guess the best thing about h2p is that my insurance went from 181 per month down to 124 after being a year with them........

Yeah national suck for customer service (with them too).

I think the best thing is to explain it calmly to H2P and get them to reimburse you the $$ ASAP. I dont think the bank will do anything, as its the fault of H2P for taking money when they shouldnt have. Get onto RAA in the mean time if H2P is only m-f as well?

i think raa customer service is only m-f as well, and they wont help me cause ill have to speak to h2p (as ive found out b4).

ud think that the nab is actually open on a sat. oh well.

The people at H2P insurance are generally easy to deal with and as said above , talk calmly.

Getting aggrow will only make who ever your talking to want to finish the conversation as quickly as possible and wont get you anywhere. However, you wont get your money back , so push for a credit , even if it is only the $60 youve been duped by the bank.(they should have a record(date) of your last conversation )

GOOD LUCK :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...