Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought my r32 about 3 months ago and ever since I have bought it I lose power steering and the HICAS light comes on. It is very random when it comes on, sometimes straight away, sometimes I've driven over an hour and its been fine. I've got a consult cable and even when the light comes on I can still read my speed off my lap top. The strange thing is I have tried to do a HICAS diagnostic and warning 5 came up(speed sensor), I'm not sure if I drove far enough forward though. Does anyone know how the wiring works, I always thought it went gauges->HICAS->ECU but if it goes from ECU to HICAS could it be a wiring problem? I would be almost certain that it is not receiving a speed signal but there are times where it works for ages.

I even bought another HICAS ECU off someone, although I am almost positive it was faulty as the steering became much heavier and it always happened very quickly with that one. Would different problems cause different variances in how stiff the steering goes?

Now all of a sudden my speedo is going bouncy below 45km/h, however the guage itself has never stopped working. Could this have been an underlying problem? Can you still lose power steering because of this even though it never showed up on the guage?

As soon as I bought the car I noticed the 2 wires coming from the power steering canister had been cut, does anyone know which way these were supposed to go. I did connect them up but I'm not sure if its the right way around, they are both black and even when swapped around I still get the HICAS light on sometimes. The fluid is always topped up but there is a slight leak from one of the hoses.

Could there be anything else causing these problems?

Cheers

I bought my r32 about 3 months ago and ever since I have bought it I lose power steering and the HICAS light comes on. It is very random when it comes on, sometimes straight away, sometimes I've driven over an hour and its been fine. I've got a consult cable and even when the light comes on I can still read my speed off my lap top. The strange thing is I have tried to do a HICAS diagnostic and warning 5 came up(speed sensor), I'm not sure if I drove far enough forward though. Does anyone know how the wiring works, I always thought it went gauges->HICAS->ECU but if it goes from ECU to HICAS could it be a wiring problem? I would be almost certain that it is not receiving a speed signal but there are times where it works for ages.

I even bought another HICAS ECU off someone, although I am almost positive it was faulty as the steering became much heavier and it always happened very quickly with that one. Would different problems cause different variances in how stiff the steering goes?

Now all of a sudden my speedo is going bouncy below 45km/h, however the guage itself has never stopped working. Could this have been an underlying problem? Can you still lose power steering because of this even though it never showed up on the guage?

As soon as I bought the car I noticed the 2 wires coming from the power steering canister had been cut, does anyone know which way these were supposed to go. I did connect them up but I'm not sure if its the right way around, they are both black and even when swapped around I still get the HICAS light on sometimes. The fluid is always topped up but there is a slight leak from one of the hoses.

Could there be anything else causing these problems?

Cheers

if theres something wrong with ur speedo then that would be ur hicas problem,ur hicas runs off ur speedo!!

I'd even suggest that you check your altenator is OK - if it's not outputting sufficient grunt and the battery wears down then it can have this sort of effect on your power steering . . . .

Now all of a sudden my speedo is going bouncy below 45km/h, however the guage itself has never stopped working. Could this have been an underlying problem? Can you still lose power steering because of this even though it never showed up on the guage?

Cheers

the speed sensor triggers high or low power assist for steering via the ECU from what i have read, when your steering wont return to normal does the speed sensor still show on the laptop? could be a intermittent connection

as far i can tell those wires are for a float level for low power steering fluid. mine are broken of and my steering runs fine. i'd say your speedo cable is on its way out. i've had this problem before, bouncey speedo, hicas light and heavy steering. turned out the square drive on the end of the speedo cable was starting to round off and kept slipping. eventually it rounded off completey and speedo, hicas and power steering just stopped.

Thanks guys,

Yeh the speed sensor works fine on my laptop even after the HICAS light comes on. I can only glimpse at it once in awhile though so I don't know if it drops the signal for a split second and then HICAS decides to stop it working for good. Battery and alternator are fine, only thing I can think of is occasionally the car drops revs going up to lights. The steering always seems to go heavy when driving along though. Good to hear about the wires because I don't know which way they are meant to be wired since they are all black.

Thanks guys,

Yeh the speed sensor works fine on my laptop even after the HICAS light comes on. I can only glimpse at it once in awhile though so I don't know if it drops the signal for a split second and then HICAS decides to stop it working for good. Battery and alternator are fine, only thing I can think of is occasionally the car drops revs going up to lights. The steering always seems to go heavy when driving along though. Good to hear about the wires because I don't know which way they are meant to be wired since they are all black.

hey mate. it sound like your talking about the float sensor wires for the power steer fluid reservoir.

if this is the case then i don't think it should mater what way you wire them.

I had the same problem as you. what i did to rectify the problem, after reading numerous threads:

1: Battery, I can't stress enough how important a healthy battery is for HICAS. do this change first.

2: Speedo cable. fix this if it boogies, not good for HICAS either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks heaps Duncan and GTSBoy. I'll get my old man to sit in the driver's seat and turn it on and off while I test with the meter. Or maybe other way round, depending on whether he remembers where his glasses got to
    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
×
×
  • Create New...