Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well im still buliding my engine its been 6 months now and its killng me i was waiting for my mechanic to

get rods for the build and now his supplier is stuffing him around

i dont know much about engine parts but i need shot pinned rods for my rb20 does anyone know of any

places that can help me get some as soon as possible?

thanks in advance...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183336-performance-engine-parts/
Share on other sites

do you want stock rods that have been shot peened or do you want aftermarket rods?

I would try...

Aus companies:

rocket industries

just jap

high octane

mod your car

or there is always greenline and nengun

I'm lucky enough to have an RB25... got some R34GTR Vspec rods for a couple of hundred bucks that bolt straight in

I have just been madly ringing around to source some replacement rings for my Arias pistons and been told they will be 4 weeks... pretty annoying as they are the only part I'm missing and everything else is back from the machinist waiting to be assembled... mine has only been off the road for 2 months and thats bad enough, 6 months would suck!

stupid pistons have a uncommon ring gaps on them so can't even find another brand that fits... welcome to the DIY rebuild!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...