Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am putting my much loved 1997 Nissan Stagea up for sale.

- 159xxx Kms

- Full Nismo Body Kit. Professionally fitted and painted by DMD May this year.

- Apexi SAFC and SITC piggy back controllers

- Front Mount Intercooler

- K&N Pod Filter

- Full 3" Turbo back exhaust with H/F cat and rear cannon

- Twin Sunroofs and Automatic closing rear hatch and Auto headlights

- Whitline Rear cradle bushes and front camber kits

- Sard blow off valve and turbotech boost controller set to 11psi (has never been boosted past this)

- Driver and passenger airbags

- Viper alarm system with remote pager, remote start, microwave sensors etc etc....

- Has also had timming belt and waterpump changed in May this year by Mercury Motorsport. Was also dyno tuned there at the same time.

- Plus more that I have probably forgotton....

Now there are a couple of things that need to be fixed but they aren't major problems. First the windscreen is cracked (not too bad but does need to be replaced) and also the front C.V boots are split and need to be replaced and possibly the front outter C.V joints as well but am not sure. I had Mercury look over the whole car when it got the belt replaced and tune done and the only things they could find were the Split C.V boots and a small leak from the valve cover gasket. Also on the very odd occasion on hard acceleration there is a small break down from the coil packs (this is a comming RB motor problem) but I haven't fixed that yet as most of the time it doesn't happen and it didn't even show up when the car was on the dyno but at some stage they will need to be replaced I guess. Other than these things the car is in great shape and drives great and looks great.

The car is registered till 5th Oct this year but I'm selling the car unregistered but will only really need the windscreen and C.V boots (and maybe joints) replaced to pass. And other than the coil packs I can't see any where else that money needs to be spent. A nice set of wheels would really set it off though.

I'm only selling the car as I have new plans in my life now and just don't want to spend further money on the car as its only getting driven mainly on weekends if that now and have bigger priorities now.

Asking price is offeres around the $13000 mark. And I will post some pics of the interior and the windscreen crack up when I can grab my g/f's camera. Please note also that I'm not selling it with the stero (and don't have the factory one to replace it with) however I will leave the pioneer 6" splits and jaycar 6" co-axils in the front and rear doors with the tweeter in the facotry locations. They are bother the yellow kevlar type.

In the pics ignore the tape on the wing as I just got the car back from DMD and I had to leave it like that for an extra 24 hours.

Either PM here or message me on my mobile 0422 583 180

ALSO ONLY SERIOUS BUYERS NEED CONTACT ME AND NO SWAP OFFERS PLEASE!!!

Thanks guys.

Josh.

post-26232-1188826943_thumb.jpg post-26232-1188826952_thumb.jpg post-26232-1188826960_thumb.jpgpost-26232-1188826973_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183604-1997-nissan-stagea-rs4/
Share on other sites

No sorry will not seperate any bits from the car.

**somethings I left out of the origional post***

I forgot to mention it in the first post but I'm in Brisbane too. And although I really don't want to settle for much less than $13000 I will "consider" offers over $12000 but no less. I would estimate about an extra $1000 - $1500 tops would cover the windscreen, C.V's and a set of splitfire coils (even though it rarley shows signs of the stock ones breaking up) which would leave you with a beautiful stagea for $14ish K. Also have just put new rear tyres on with the fronts still having a bit of life left in them yet.

Edited by Mr_RS4

***Update***

I will let it go AS IS for $12000 FIRM or if you wish I can get the things fixed up (listed above) with a RWC and then it will be $13800 FIRM but will require a deposit on the car for the later option.

I would really like to sell asap but don't bother offering less than what I've posted as that really is cheap enough as it is.

Edited by Mr_RS4

Bump

As said above $12000 as is or $13,800 with the listed items fixed RWC and 6 months rego. FIRM on both prices. Pics don't do it justice, don't be scared off by the couple of things that need fixing, this is a beautiful car and is in great condition for a 10yo car and just because its modded doesn't mean its been thrashed. Also cash sale only no swaps.

Bump, I really need to sell this but am still firm on the prices. $12,000 as is or $13800 (new windscreen, coilpacks, C.V's and valvecover gasket) plus RWC and 6 months rego. Either option is a great price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...