Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey yall i bought my r32 a little while ago now and am looking to ypgrade the turbo but me being me i have no clue what will fit and what i need so i am hopeing you guys and gals can give me a hand.

Suggestions needed: TURBO, EXHAUST,EBC, COMPUTER, INJECTORS,FUEL PUMP, etc

i have already bought an apexi dyna flow front mount but need help putting it on LOL so useless says i. (hint hint markimark heard you are the man to show me how )

i am looking to get around the 200 - 220 RWKW mark but i dont want to be straining the engine to get the out of it.

Please help me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/
Share on other sites

em i was looking at that i while back for mine.

gt 2530 i what i came up with.

i put my front mount in i can help you if yah want.

you need also injectors..

z32 afm

maybe another computer, if you do afm i think....look for a pfc if anyone has one, hard to find for the rb20.

oh and exhaust is the first mod. i have a straight through with cat and rear muff....and 3" dump.

if you dont want a pfc, then the computer is the real debate.

fuel pump...either gtr, or 044 bosche.

a malpassi or any rrfr. (fuel reg) is handy but not needed.

Edited by Oblivion
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334841
Share on other sites

3" exhaust, FMIC, Fuel computer(SAFC, EManage is better) and tune, rb25 turbo, Pod or better panel filter. should be good for about 180rwkw with everything else std. injector on like 90% duty cycle mind you. std fuel pump is good for about that but they are old, and you dont really want it to fail or under fuel, Bosch 044 is good upgrade.

cheap and easy setup with good power and driveable :)

unless you've got a big budget

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334860
Share on other sites

3" exhaust, FMIC, Fuel computer(SAFC, EManage is better) and tune, rb25 turbo, Pod or better panel filter. should be good for about 180rwkw with everything else std. injector on like 90% duty cycle mind you. std fuel pump is good for about that but they are old, and you dont really want it to fail or under fuel, Bosch 044 is good upgrade.

cheap and easy setup with good power and driveable :)

unless you've got a big budget

saying that.

you dont even need to do turbo if you dont mind replacing you stock 20 turbo after 40,000 klms if you run like 16-18 psi through it.

but yeah look at your budget, going to turbo set up i said with injectors and what not..

turbo set up prob 1500, then injectors and other on top of that.

but less lag and longer lasting then a stock 25 turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334873
Share on other sites

yeah i think i like the EMANAGE

i had it in my old project car it it served me well

i have the front mount at home and talking to MARKIMARK about helping me put it on so am already getting things in motion thanks heap guys and gals keep the help coming

AS SOON AS I AM finished making my front and dump pipe my exhaust will be ready wioll have to show you all so you can tell me how i went.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334876
Share on other sites

yeah i wanted to get a TD04 but am leaning towards the 25 turbo less lag.

I also need some advice on where to put my four smoked face gauges i can install them myself but dont know where to put them. i only want to put 2 on the A pillar but i want the pillar mount to look nice and have a good seal.

Edited by 18RZZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334878
Share on other sites

em i was looking at that i while back for mine.

gt 2530 i what i came up with.

i put my front mount in i can help you if yah want.

you need also injectors..

z32 afm

maybe another computer, if you do afm i think....look for a pfc if anyone has one, hard to find for the rb20.

oh and exhaust is the first mod. i have a straight through with cat and rear muff....and 3" dump.

if you dont want a pfc, then the computer is the real debate.

fuel pump...either gtr, or 044 bosche.

a malpassi or any rrfr. (fuel reg) is handy but not needed.

EWWW.. im anti fuel regs.. u knw that rohan. the AP engineering PFC is hard to find.. an emanage might be good. dont knw much bout them but knw they r piggy back.

i reckon get a GTR or a nismo sard whatever fuel pump. or i can cut and fit a 040 for ya.. takes 30mins.. flows well :)

yeah i think i like the EMANAGE

i had it in my old project car it it served me well

i have the front mount at home and talking to MARKIMARK about helping me put it on so am already getting things in motion thanks heap guys and gals keep the help coming

AS SOON AS I AM finished making my front and dump pipe my exhaust will be ready wioll have to show you all so you can tell me how i went.

Cheers

cheers mate.

start off with the exhaust FMIC and boost. then get ur pump. then work out if u wanna go bigger turbo injectors and afm.. ull then need a ECU. everything after the cooler exhaust and boost up will need a comp really. u can always remap the RB20 ecu. :)

and if u got a bit of cash an apexi series turbo kit would dominate all. one on NS.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334925
Share on other sites

yeah i wanted to get a TD04 but am leaning towards the 25 turbo less lag.

I also need some advice on where to put my four smoked face gauges i can install them myself but dont know where to put them. i only want to put 2 on the A pillar but i want the pillar mount to look nice and have a good seal.

i'd be careful about the pillar mount, i have been done before for having them there. but boost i reckon on top of the steering column, and others cut into the dash, or mounted on the side of the clutster.

EWWW.. im anti fuel regs.. u knw that rohan. the AP engineering PFC is hard to find.. an emanage might be good. dont knw much bout them but knw they r piggy back.

i reckon get a GTR or a nismo sard whatever fuel pump. or i can cut and fit a 040 for ya.. takes 30mins.. flows well :)

cheers mate.

start off with the exhaust FMIC and boost. then get ur pump. then work out if u wanna go bigger turbo injectors and afm.. ull then need a ECU. everything after the cooler exhaust and boost up will need a comp really. u can always remap the RB20 ecu. :)

and if u got a bit of cash an apexi series turbo kit would dominate all. one on NS.com

lol yeah i know, for us sliders they are pointless, but for fuel economy and rice factor they are good.

i recommend a remapped ecu until you go huge power. i am running one and i dont think 170rwkw is too shabby on a stock rb20. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3334995
Share on other sites

i'd be careful about the pillar mount, i have been done before for having them there. but boost i reckon on top of the steering column, and others cut into the dash, or mounted on the side of the clutster.

lol yeah i know, for us sliders they are pointless, but for fuel economy and rice factor they are good.

i recommend a remapped ecu until you go huge power. i am running one and i dont think 170rwkw is too shabby on a stock rb20. :)

sorry i think i might have made a typo or somehthing its

174 RWHP horpower so yeah its slow as LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3335644
Share on other sites

sorry i think i might have made a typo or somehthing its

174 RWHP horpower so yeah its slow as LOL

nah buddy i was talking about my car. with the chipped ecu etc.

i am running about 220BHP or 170 RWKW...about that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3337435
Share on other sites

thats the hard part

then you have to make it go fast :( though my R32 when it was 205rwkw on the stock RB25 and turbo was pretty fast I suppose

Yeah i would like 300HP, what would be good, or maybe a bit over....but i want it built for response...small full boost by 2,500 or before.

but will see how that idea pans out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3337444
Share on other sites

well most of you guys saw my car on sunday i think the only thing going for it at the moment was the passenger in the car with me.

so as you all can see i need all the help i can get..

i did however notice that i am the only one without an exhaust system on my car so i think the first thuings i am going to do is the FMIC ( thanks to MARKIMARK performance ) and an exhaust. if the pipe work i make for my exhaust system does not work is there anyhhtaffer i good rane of decent systems (cat or turbo back )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184135-need-advice/#findComment-3337446
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...