Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i purchased a rb25 ( turbo) long block for my car about 6 months ago unsure of whether it was a s1 or s2 engine.. i only recently finished installing it into my car.. today i went to start it and it wouldnt start.. now my original engien in the car was a s1 so i plugged everything off my s1 engine onto this new engine.. i have some doubts that it could be a s2 engine because the coil pack cover was slightly different at the back to the one that was on my s1 engine. now if the engine was a s2 engien would assecories come on if i put the key in? i'm going to change the battery tomorrow to see if that is the problem but i would like your thoughts on the matter..

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184678-need-help-engien-not-starting/
Share on other sites

no fuel pump priming and no starter motor going..

Yeah just double check everything battery, earths, connectors etc. You should still be able to see the dash lights when you put the key in. Can you hear the starter motor going or the fuel pump priming? or is just totally dead?

ok i bought a new battery and installed it... i checked thoroughly to see if everything was plugged in and found that the earth cable wasnt mounted onto the engine.. I put it to accessories, the fuel pump primed this time. i go to start it and the started motor makes a noise once and then all the dash lights go off and have to disconnect the battery n put it back on to attempt again and still the same thing happens.. any ideas.. also checked all fuses.. all ok

there is good metal to metal contact and also the battery terminal is screwed on tight.. what i'm worried about is that it could be a series 2 engine and i've hooked up s1 ecu and s1 ingnitor module to the s1 coilpacks. But if it was a s2 engine would it be priming the fuel pump if it has the wrong ecu in it?

there is good metal to metal contact and also the battery terminal is screwed on tight.. what i'm worried about is that it could be a series 2 engine and i've hooked up s1 ecu and s1 ingnitor module to the s1 coilpacks. But if it was a s2 engine would it be priming the fuel pump if it has the wrong ecu in it?

The engine doesn't mean anything

If you have a Series 1 ECU, loom, Ignotor pack, and coil packs, then it will be fine.

You might have to think outside the square. Grab a multimeter and go to town!

Tried a different ECU?

i havent tried a different ecu, however all the sensors and ecu and loom were all workin on the other engine. the only thing that i can think ov would b that i have a series 2 engine with s1 components on it. also i wouldnt know where to start with the multimeter ( never used one before)

mate, the Head and block in the Series one and two would have no differences.

Only the wiring loom \ ecu \ coil packs etc. So you've effectively downgraded the entire ignition system down to a series one, which will be fine. So a Series Two engine and head with a series one ignitor pack, wiring loom, ECU and coil packs would work fine..

Unless the wiring in the rest of the car to the fuel pump or something is different?

if you go back to one of his earlier post he says

ok i bought a new battery and installed it... i checked thoroughly to see if everything was plugged in and found that the earth cable wasnt mounted onto the engine.. I put it to accessories, the fuel pump primed this time. i go to start it and the started motor makes a noise once and then all the dash lights go off and have to disconnect the battery n put it back on to attempt again and still the same thing happens.. any ideas.. also checked all fuses.. all ok

the fact that you have a series 2 motor being controlled by a series 1 loom doesn't have anything to do with it. you swapped everything over. didn't you?

have you checked your connections to the starter motor?

its abit worrying when you say you wouldn't know where to start with a multimeter and your attempting to fault find a clearly electrical fault. i'm not having a go at you, everyone has to start learning somewhere.

to me it sounds like you haven't got enough power going to the starter. bad connection somewhere? altenator to starter motor connection?

nah nothing else is different.. i'll give it another check over tonight when i get round to it and post results.

mate, the Head and block in the Series one and two would have no differences.

Only the wiring loom \ ecu \ coil packs etc. So you've effectively downgraded the entire ignition system down to a series one, which will be fine. So a Series Two engine and head with a series one ignitor pack, wiring loom, ECU and coil packs would work fine..

Unless the wiring in the rest of the car to the fuel pump or something is different?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
×
×
  • Create New...