Jump to content
SAU Community

Compression Tested

Adz2332

By Adz2332,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted

I have a GTST Series 2 R33.

Im looking to put new turbo and injectors on it. taking it from 200kws to around 275kws...

My thing is though before i do it is it worth getting a compression test done and a general look over the motor to see if its ok?

Also if something comes back negative is there things i can do now to make it perfect again before i shove the turbo on?

Or should i just put the turbo on and hope for the best?

Anu other ideas would be appreciated also

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185510-compression-tested/
Share on other sites
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Get a compression test and a leak down test done.

That will give you a good indication of how healthy the motor is.

Compression test you can do your self if you have a tester.

As long as they are generally fairly even (1 - 2psi variance) it will be fine.

Expecting around 150psi/cylinder for a healthy Rb25.

Edited by abu
Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Get a compression test and a leak down test done.

That will give you a good indication of how healthy the motor is.

Compression test you can do your self if you have a tester.

As long as they are generally fairly even (1 - 2psi variance) it will be fine.

Expecting around 150psi/cylinder for a healthy Rb25.

ok say the compression test comews back bad what can be done?

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok say the compression test comews back bad what can be done?

Bad compression test would probably indicate that the rings are worn, which is why the compression is low.

Ummm.. rebuild I think? lol

Can't do much else if you have low compression.

Edited by abu
LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

dont forget a leakdown test also will give you a better indication of your engines condition. Personally if your using your car only for street use 200kw at the wheels is a pretty quick streeter so if the car is running good now and the comp test comes back borderline/average then atleast you'll still have a quick car as it is.

Edited by LatinR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • TurboTapin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...