Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey Clint32 did you notice much difference goin from 4:3:1 to 4:1:1?, I read on www.calaisturbo.com that its's worth dropping in 4:3:1 that the r32 gts-t has combined with the engine/gearbox conversion to get the most out of the conversion, my only problem with the conversion is that the speedo is about 20km/h out!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18561-diff-ratios-r32/#findComment-412514
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

4.3 = 3700-3800 in 5th at 110km or around 3500 at 100km/h in 5th. mite sound like a bit. put your foot down and your on boost in around.0000000003 seconds :P lol.. so its alright for taking over slower moving cars.. or when you want to race your mate in 5th gear.. lol. but yea.. your looking at higher revs for any given speed in any given gear.. remember that. but i like my 4.3's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18561-diff-ratios-r32/#findComment-714664
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I just had my diff pulled down and it had 4.11 ratio from what I was told.(92 R32 GTS-T)

While I'm at it does anyone know where I can get a new crown wheel and pinion gear set (4.11) for an R32 GTS-T?

I ask as the old crown wheel is marked and I decided to not change it (to save $$$)but it still wines a fair bit so if I can get a new gear set it would be nice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18561-diff-ratios-r32/#findComment-898671
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...