Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

I have an S1 stagea and just fitted the turbotech boost controller to try and get some more boost out of it. However it seems the more boost i put into it the worse it drives, gauge is showing 10-12psi but the car doesnt seem to move very well, then after about 4500-5000rpm the gauge tapers down to about 7/8psi but the car pulls harder, as in its still doing the factory dual boost settings from what i can feel, but the gauge is showing otherwise ..

Is an ecu and tune nessasary for this to work better?

Cheers, grant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185925-boost-control-issues/
Share on other sites

far out mate chill out aye

Hahahahaha :) yeh the guys on here are ruthless. Don't know everything about everything and you're burnt! :thumbsup:

I recently installed a turbotech on a stock ECU/turbo setup, just like the guy who posted this thread. After 11psi the ECU protects the engine by running rich (& retard) so you don't pump too much compressed air into the combustion chamber without enough fuel (as the factory air/fuel ratios haven't been tuned on the factory ECU above this boost setting). If the mixture runs lean you can bust the motor, i.e. warping conrods or the crank, that's why it does this.

For example my R33 'hesitates' when i mash the throttle at 12+psi because it runs rich to keep the engine safe. This is what happens to you by the look of it.

My advice is keep the boost set to 10psi, 11psi MAX. It is better for the stock turbo anyway. If you get the ECU remapped you can take it up to 1bar if the tuner is comfortable with it.

Have fun :wave:

far out mate chill out aye
Hahahahaha :banana: yeh the guys on here are ruthless. Don't know everything about everything and you're burnt! :(

I recently installed a turbotech on a stock ECU/turbo setup, just like the guy who posted this thread. After 11psi the ECU protects the engine by running rich (& retard) so you don't pump too much compressed air into the combustion chamber without enough fuel (as the factory air/fuel ratios haven't been tuned on the factory ECU above this boost setting). If the mixture runs lean you can bust the motor, i.e. warping conrods or the crank, that's why it does this.

For example my R33 'hesitates' when i mash the throttle at 12+psi because it runs rich to keep the engine safe. This is what happens to you by the look of it.

My advice is keep the boost set to 10psi, 11psi MAX. It is better for the stock turbo anyway. If you get the ECU remapped you can take it up to 1bar if the tuner is comfortable with it.

Have fun :nyaanyaa:

what the hell are you guys on about, saying "chill" and that other shit?

I simply gave him a few search terms what would bring up shatloads of threads where this problem has been explained so many times before.

Not point in me typing out the explaination everytime the question pops up, I'd be here everyday, replying to at least 5 threads a day, typing the same old shit, word for word. This would completely defeat the purpose of SAU wouldn't it? f**k, its not MSN messenger... Its a user information database!

This is a message forum - Like a dictionary - when you want something, you search before asking. I simply pointed him in the right direction, in a friendly manner.

The SAME questions get asked over and over again, thats why there is a search function! Sometimes, people just need to know what to search for, hence my post..

fark.........

Its a user information database... ...This is a message forum - Like a dictionary - when you want something, you search before asking...

:nyaanyaa: Good description.

Its often a fine balancing act of "Jelly bean, candy coated and answering every noob Q like it was the first VS bluntly directing ppl to the correct A: and spending our collective time on current unanswered issue's"

2Cents

Edited by GeeTR
  • 3 weeks later...

Yeh this is happening to me as well.. it goes bang pop bang pop which is boost cut. I turned the boost down and i think i'm just borderline.. not sure how it will go @ night might give it extra psi n hit boost cut. It goes up to 12 then down to 9 then creeps up to 10 just a little bit over towards redline. Strange thing about it is in 1st it goes 10-11 already n same in 2nd is the same.. it's quite aggressive and in 3rd to 4th.. sits comfortably in 9-10-11 depending how hard i drive it.

Still running stock ECU but gettn my powerFC tuned.. so i should b able to boost it up to 12psi right guys????

Ta

-SeS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...