Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go have a cry emokid!!

ha. ok lame but im throwing it out there..

how many emo's does it take to change a light bulb????..................none, they would rather sit in the dark and cry about it.

anyway.. back on topic, i personally hate the look of the twin exhaust, reminds me of what the yanks do to their civics and alike over there. to me it doesnt look right on a skyline. plus i bet it would cost a bit to get done. id spend my money elsewhere.. my 2c

for the money involved you might spool up slightly quicker but is the money worth it, it would be all custom work, heat sheilds to stop the boot heating up (and petrol tank) and cutting the rear bar to match the existing exhurst.

ha. ok lame but im throwing it out there..

how many emo's does it take to change a light bulb????..................none, they would rather sit in the dark and cry about it.

anyway.. back on topic, i personally hate the look of the twin exhaust, reminds me of what the yanks do to their civics and alike over there. to me it doesnt look right on a skyline. plus i bet it would cost a bit to get done. id spend my money elsewhere.. my 2c

lol yer was just after a few pics to see what it looked like first... ill get a quote and see what its worth and go from there....

And GTST im not having a go at you but there are ways of voicing your opinion without pissing people off and you havgent found that way yet...

I don't give a crap about pissing people off.

If you want to be the type of person to consider peoples feelings when voicing your opinion on an open public forum, go right ahead.

for the money involved you might spool up slightly quicker but is the money worth it

explain how?

the twin system will be from the cat back as that is the only time it can be split.

anything that aids spool up time is the dumpipe design.

It will not make the performance of his car better in anyway.

and he knows that already.

he just wants it for the look.

good luck with it.

lol GTST your a god damn loser. hahha. Who gives a shit just tell him what he wants to know then move on to another thread. Can't believe you'd spend this much time wasting your time if you think its so damn rediculous.

Furthermore, if its just for looks, then it should not be in the Forced Induction forum?

Last time I checked, Forced Induction is "the process of using a mechanical system to "force" more

air into an engine. This includes Superchargers, Turbochargers, ..." and the process of which is not in any way relevant to installing a dual canon/dual exhaust system off a single turbo which is highly impractical and a waste of money, although being somewhat desirable...

So. +1 to both of you to shutup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...