Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Odd Clips From Car. Best Approach?

l_uk3y

By l_uk3y,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. whilst out tinkering from time to time ive found that a lot of the line's clips and bits and pieces are fairly brittle and like to snap when u try to remove them. For example. when trying to pull the underside of the bootlid out. Im in the process of sounddeadening the boot atm and these clips are giving me the irrits. Any thoughts on the easiest way to get these out without breaking them.

Another point ill add. Under the bonnet there is sum crappy foamish sorta material which is rubbing on my intercooler piping and wearing off all the shine. This is held together by the same sorta clips. If i was to remove this could it effect the way heat radiates through the engine bay? as im sure its there for some purpose.

btw this is in a S2 R33 gts-t..

Cheers in advance. Luke

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted
Another point ill add. Under the bonnet there is sum crappy foamish sorta material which is rubbing on my intercooler piping and wearing off all the shine. This is held together by the same sorta clips. If i was to remove this could it effect the way heat radiates through the engine bay? as im sure its there for some purpose.

I know what you mean there. I painted my pipes matt black for a more stock-ish look and the cover is rubbing all the paint off!! When I repaint it, it looks dodgey. haha

Dantay Rising Star

Dantay

Posted
Posted

yeah i hate this issue, the ones in the engine bay are worst because they heat has just ruined them. i have found that where possible if you work them out/open with needle nose pillars or a thin flat head they seem to not shatter in a billion little bits so easy.

of course the ultimate way to beat this is not to own 15yr cars right....

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted (edited)

There is a special trim clip removing tool you can buy that makes it very easy. Unfortunately i do not know where to buy it. Id say probably automotive tool specialist like snap on or the like. I know snap on sell a complete kit but at a guess its probably hell expensive knowing snap on!

As for what the sheilding/matting is for..Id probably say to its mainly there under the bonnet for heat and possbly to dampen it. Less tinny sounding. Same purpose as the body deadener your adding only the deadener your adding would do 100 times better job! On my car seeing i've spent so much on a show paint job i doubt i will put the bonnet one back on. As for the boot, there isnt one on the r32. So don't be too worried about leaving them off.

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...