Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My carby specialist is happy to replace/reprofile the needles to get a richer burn at the top end at the first available date... January 7, 2008.

Looks like Ill be short-shifting for the festive season. Probably just as well.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 5 weeks later...

Finally some news.

I took the car to Randy at Nissco in Bayswater and he diagnosed the problem to be the air-fuel mixture as being way to lean. At high RPM my car could hit 20:1 air-to-fuel, as opposed to 13.5:1, the ideal ratio.

So... I had to go back to my fuel guy and ask him to sort it out, which was kind of awkward, especially seeing I'd already paid him that lazy grand-and-a-half. He said that he would replace or machine the needles and see if that made a difference.

Fast forward a month or two and I finally got my car back. Putting the needles on a lathe and feathering the ends has added 32bhp at the rear wheels. The latest Dyno found at 122bhp at the rear and the car basically flies. It will also hit any number you choose on the taco without any hesitation like before.

The SU's are now full of automatic transmission fluid, to answer Mr Elk's question, unlike my old Austin Kimberly (now that was a really bad-ass car) that ran Singer Sewing Machine oil in its single SU. Apparently there is a genuine SU lubricant that is between ATF and sewing-machine oil in viscosity, but I've not come across it yet.

The grinding noise from the rear end is actually due to a really badly worn caliper. An engineer found the problem by yanking on the handbrake cable really violently and the whole unit slopped around everywhere!

Anyway... thanks to everyone who posted a suggestion in this thread. Hopefully 2008 is going to be a more merciful year on my car and my sanity.

Cheers for you help guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...