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Upgrading The Line


sam5709
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hey guys, iv decided the its time for an upgrade on my 33

im upgrading my turbo to an ITS direct bolt on turbo that i bought on these forums

at them moment i have the stock turbo pulled off the car although i noticed that the first two manifold bolts were missing (first 2 on the left if looking at it from the turbo side)

if i put my finger in there i can feel that the studs have been snapped off at some stage,

my question is should i just leave it and put the new turbo on or should i get the studs fixed once and for all before putting the new turbo setup on?

right now the car cant move any where so im guessing i have to get a thread guy out to do it? or is there an easy DIY way of replacing them?

:)sam

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best to do it when the turbo is off and you can get in there, you don't really want to be pulling everthing back off in the near future to replace a blown gasket. also there might be more than the two that are gone or about to fall off. if you handy on the tools you can do it yourself, there is a write up somewhere on this site that shows the procedure for using a stud extractor, should be able to find it easy with a search.

i've just had to do a few of mine, three of which were missing and another 3 just broke off when i put the spanner over them, and after all my searching for thred pitch and diameter it seems that all the rb's are and M10 x 1.25 stud (both ends) about 50mm long. about $2 - $3 each.

to get the broken ones out i just use a left twist drill, works a treat, no stuffing around with the possibility of snapping a stud extractor or easy out. one thing to keep in mind is the limited space, you may need a right angle drill to get on the stud nice and square.

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oh ok kool,

so yeh i might as well do it once and do it right while everything it off :(

so how does the stud actually fit into place, because looking at the rest of them, all i can see is a stud with a nut on there, after i drill the stud out how do i put a new one in there?

LOL man im a noob at this part of the upgrade :whoops:

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definately do it,

pull the mani off and then get someone to come pull the studs, thread tech did it for me in QLD for $100ish replace them all with new ones from nissan along with gasket

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so how does the stud actually fit into place, because looking at the rest of them, all i can see is a stud with a nut on there, after i drill the stud out how do i put a new one in there?

search for the DIY. its got a few pics of the studs and how/where they go.

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just make sure u dont go snapping the stud removal tool in there. I just had the trauma of taking the head off and putting it back on to get out a broken bit in there. trust me it sucks trying to drill into a snapped bit in the very last stud at the back of the engine. Just make sure u drill deep enough (but not too far) dont go cutting corners. i thought i was deep enough when drilling cause i was too scared of going in too far and i ended up causing a lot of trouble.

I had 2 at the front broken and they were pretty easy to get out tho. lesson learned after the first stud.

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yeh im going to be extra cautious when doing this,

iv just finished taking out the studs that wernt snapped off and broken, i figured might as well get them all replaced as well.....

tomorrow i start on the broken ones LOL

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best way, if you dont have one, go and hire a right angle drill, doesn't cost much. go to a tool shop and buy and left twist drill bit, i used a 6mm. as you drill into the stud it also unscrews it.

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just got ew studs nuts and a gasket from nissan today cost me $70 all up (god i luv getting trade prices :thumbsup:)

i need to update my drill any way so ill go and buy a newie tomorrow and start doing it on the weekend :happy:

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Unless you've got a left hand drill bit I'd leave it to the "stud man".

I've been removing snapped studs with extractors for donkey's years, but I had one arrive on my jigger's engine with a snapped tool in it, the one at the fire wall too.

So I tossed the engine in the trailer and went to my mates at Gympie Exhausts.

OK they positioned a washer over the snapped tool and Migged it on in a flash.

Then they Migged an M10 nut onto that washer. Now you've got something to grab onto.

They had to decide if the broken tool unscrewed or was a drive in type. A few attempts and some WD40 and the snapped off tool complete with welded on appendages was out.

Next they did the same weld on washer and nut procedure to get out the actual stud, which unscrewed easily due to the welding heat.

Clean out the threads with a tap and she's ready for a set of new studs.

Cost $25 for the stud removal job.

Thanks guys.

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