Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Microtech do make one that hooks correctly to auto transmission computer.

The LTX-12 computer calculates more calculations per second or at least very similar - so should be just as smooth if not smoother.

A MAP sensor is not less accurate!

The full power of tuning software for every parameter and even the maps themselves is available to end user and mechanics in English and not just a Japanese apexi authorised workshop only version.

It stores 4 tuned programs which you can switch between using either hand controller or laptop, or the dash display (shows dials).

The idle problem is not a problem on the microtech in any way if it is tuned right down to 500rpm which is absolutely possible. The thing is it does require tuning all through the rev range and not just for above half throttle and full throttle. Need low throttle tuned as well.

The overall time required to do this tuning is dependant on the dyno machine used. on a dynopak dyno, 3 hours should do it plus a couple of cold starts.

Just so you know what closed loop is - all it does is set the fuel/air mix to 14:1 when no throttle (idle).

Just as easily done by including low throttle and low rpm in the tune.

If you want it cheaper - I'll check, just pm me.

  • Replies 116
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just so you know what closed loop is - all it does is set the fuel/air mix to 14:1 when no throttle (idle).

Closed loop leans out the car when cruising on light throttle.

It definately gets you a lot more kays out of a tank.

Joel,

Oops does it work for low throttle too?

If you want fuel economy you will still need the low throttle tuned to 14:1 as well. Most of the time thats what you sit on while cruising.

Don't forget, just plugging in a PowerFC will actually give you bad fuel economy.

For better fuel economy you still need to tune the PowerFC too!

The thing is both the tune programming and making maps are accessible on the microtech through the laptop software.

Can anyone tell me what maps the PowerFC won't let you alter? as I'm considering getting a Power FC and testing it.

I'm getting a new front mount fitted tomorrow.

I'll let you know what fuel/air ratio I get for idle once I have the microtech fitted and tuned after this.

Originally posted by Edge

Joel,  

Oops does it work for low throttle too?

If you want fuel economy you will still need the low throttle tuned to 14:1 as well. Most of the time thats what you sit on while cruising.  

Don't forget, just plugging in a PowerFC will actually give you bad fuel economy.

For better fuel economy you still need to tune the PowerFC too!

The thing is both the tune programming and making maps are accessible on the microtech through the laptop software.

Can anyone tell me what maps the PowerFC won't let you alter? as I'm considering getting a Power FC and testing it.

I'm getting a new front mount fitted tomorrow.

I'll let you know what fuel/air ratio I get for idle once I have the microtech fitted and tuned after this.

I have a Import Magazine at work i thing it is number 30 and it explanes what is opened up buy the new laptop software for the GTR. I'll try and post the info tommorrow!

If your car has only the usual air pod and exaust there are a few guys that are readding this thread (including me) that would be very interested in someone haveing there car tuned and taking some pictures of the Matrix Tables and screen 29 and 30 setups then posting them on this thread!!!

I think i can get the car to run very efficiently i just need something reasonable to start with so as the idle isn't driving me crazy. Having trouble with some of the screen 29 and 30 settings!

I am going to purchase a $300 dollar wide ratio oxygen sensor but cannot do this and pay for dyno tuning.

With this i will be able to lean off the mid range for people with std engines for day to day driving. Then they can swith back to a full power map for a track day. I would assume anyone dyno tuning would be aiming for sher performance throughout the rev range. Unless you pay for someone to do to maps for you BIG MONEY!

Are you serious i didn't even know you could get genuine Skyline stuff. Has your RB 20 got a 3wire sensor because i'm pretty certain certain the 98 200sx sensor has the same plug as an R33 ( just going off pics in mags ) i'll have to go to a car yard and check it out BUT there sensors are $170 direct from Cessnock Nissan full price!

I gave Nissan a buzz and they said a RB20DET O2 Sensor was $280.

Apparently even though the sensors look the same and have just as many wires to do differ. Thats what the nissan bloke told me.

Also apparently it is possible to use a EL-EF Ford 6 O2 Sensor, BUT speaking to NGK, they said exactly the same thing as Nissan told me.

I love that RB 30 Guide as i'm a Motorcycle Mechanic obviously have a RB25det head, and also have a spare RB30 bottom end, a RB26dett water pump and a microtech so it looks like there will be an engine ready for my car when it lets go!

Looks like i'll have to spend $750 and get the 100% increased clamping full faced ceramic heavy duty clutch!!! Then it will go straight on the RB25/30DET. The main price will be the Forged Pistons, except we deal for wisco at work!!!

Originally posted by Edge

Microtech do make one that hooks correctly to auto transmission computer.  

The LTX-12 computer calculates more calculations per second or at least very similar - so should be just as smooth if not smoother.

A MAP sensor is not less accurate!

A map sensor is certainly less accurate, as you are attempting to determine the intake air quantity via manifold pressure. With a AFM you already know the air quantity, and with an ecu that calculates air per cyinder per reference pulse you will get vastly greater fuel control as compared to a map sensor

The full power of tuning software for every parameter and even the maps themselves is available to end user and mechanics in English and not just a Japanese apexi authorised workshop only version.  

It stores 4 tuned programs which you can switch between using either hand controller or laptop, or  the dash display (shows dials).

The idle problem is not a problem on the microtech in any way if it is tuned right down to 500rpm which is absolutely possible. The thing is it does require tuning all through the rev range and not just for above half throttle and full throttle. Need low throttle tuned as well.

The overall time required to do this tuning is dependant on the dyno machine used. on a dynopak dyno, 3 hours should do it plus a couple of cold starts.

Just so you know what closed loop is - all it does is set the fuel/air mix to 14:1 when no throttle (idle).

Just as easily done by including low throttle and low rpm in the tune.

If you want it cheaper - I'll check, just pm me.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

hm good topic this one. did a search for Microtech and found this. im looking at an LTX8 for my DR30 skyline (4 cyl FJ20). can get one in and tuned for $1450 w/out handset with aftermarket separate coils (FJ has single coil stock). but the guy didnt mention removal of AFM and the additional air temp sensor so ill have to ask about that. still gonna be pretty damn cheap though for the Microtech. my other option is a Wolf V4 for ~$2200 w/out separate coils.

seems micro is pretty good apart from fuel consumption possibley, but then my stock ECU is 1984 analog ecu and it idles rough and runs very rich at idle anyway :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...