Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Turbo On Rb20 Help

silvercam

By silvercam,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

silvercam Contributor

silvercam

Posted
Posted

i have just finished bolting an rb25 series 2 turbo on my rb20 ceff motor after broken studs and turbo not fitting it is finally on but it seems to not be releasing boost i have the rb20 acuator on the rb25 turbo the thing is i had to move the arm a bit to get it to line up so i am thinking the acuator arm isnt coming out enough to open up the exhuast flap it boosts to stock ten and holds but seems like it stuggles to get there. when it releases it make a weird like blow of value sound but i have the normal plumb back setup but it sounds the the boost is being held in its not the normal psss would it be cause of the actuator isnt releasing help? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187844-rb25-turbo-on-rb20-help/
Share on other sites
silvercam Contributor

silvercam

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Please post questions clearly.

What you are saying contradicts itself with the gate not opening & slow boost build - it simply cant occur!

hey sorry about the post i was on my way out, still cant seem to work out why i am getting this weird sound.

mate reckons it could be my stock plumb back is not releasing air so my spring is only opening a little bit.

any other ideas?

Edited by silvercam
silvercam Contributor

silvercam

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the arm need to have free movement try bend it carefully till it can

Im assuming the Act is off your old turbo which had no boost problems so I doubt its stuffed Act

yeah it doesnt have free movement, maby that is the problem will give it a go and get back to ya :P

thanks for the comment

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Mine makes a wooshing noise too and sometime if I'm off the gas quickly when on full boost it flutters a bit and a get a nice pop out the exhaust (likely due to the extra fuel being thrown in as a result of the flutter).

117,000km RB20DET (known km's..)

RB25 s1 turbo

FMIC

Greddy Profec B spec2

standard untuned ecu

standard injectors

made 183rwkw @12psi on Hyperdrives dyno today :)

silvercam Contributor

silvercam

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hey car is fine, your right bubba mine is the same. mate reckons i am tripping just makes a different sound becuase it is releasing more air. The gain is huge compared to stock pulls harder through the whole rev range. Think i just mite need a tune dumps a bit of fuel lol cheers for the help

Edited by silvercam
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

The 25 turbo is shitloads better than the 20 turbo. I think it has shifter full boost probably 1000rpm higher.. with the 20 turbo my car would start spooling about 2000rpm and full boost before 3000rpm, now I'm starting to spool about 3000rpm and full boost about 3500rpm (got a dyno sheet with boost reading, I'll post that up soon).

I will be using this 25 turbo on the 30 to start with while I save for a bigger turbo.. will probably make boost from idle on the 30 :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
×
×
  • Create New...