Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

having a wierd prob with the auto .. not sure whats causing it, wondering if anyone else has had a similar prob

usually only happens when the car is cold, after about 5 mins of driving, and only if i have accelorated hard (usually)

the prob is it wont change out of first, will just keep revving away... one way around it is to use the "power / snow" switch to force it into 2nd gear, it will change and hold in that .. but not change up. tried using the shifter to manually change, and doesnt do a thing. then after a few mins of that it will change into 3rd and all will be fine.

any ideas ppl?

cheers

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18792-auto-issue/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

from what i was told when i had the shift kit installed they did a service at the same time. i seen ya in adelaide, i had it done @ MV auto's, they seemed pretty good so i wouldnt wanna think they didnt do something when they said they did ??

no harm in having another done tho ...

cheers for the advice

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18792-auto-issue/#findComment-408543
Share on other sites

hmm... i was thinking it could be an electronic prob, but i didnt consider the ecu having any affect on it?

i guess it wouldnt hurt at all to do a reset?

does the trans have its on comp, and if so would that be "reset" if the supply is removed too? i wouldnt think the auto comp (if it has one) would learn **** all tho, so it would have nothing to reset back to.

so i explained it ok then if you had the exact same probs i guess ....lol

cheers

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18792-auto-issue/#findComment-409126
Share on other sites

i got an alarm installed within first week of buying car, but cant say i noticed it until months later i think.

first would happen once in a blue moon, its progressivly happened more and more often til now when its on kinda a daily basis, perhaps every 2 - 3 days

was it exactly the same prob that i described, if so did it happen to you everytime you would drive the car? or occasionally like mine

cheers again

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18792-auto-issue/#findComment-411535
Share on other sites

shannon, my problem was EXACTLY what your talking about. I disconnected my battery overnight, so it may have had an effect on the auto's computer also.

Maybe you have been driving your auto a little like a manual?, holding it in 2nd till redline? *shrugs*

anyway, try disconnect the battery overnight, if it doesnt solve your problem i would suggest a tranny flush.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18792-auto-issue/#findComment-415916
Share on other sites

Shannon:

Just wondering if you had an aftermarket BOV....

...too weak a spring on the valve can cause it to stay slightly open on partial throttle, ie mild acceleration.....and that seems to cause the auto box to stay in gear ever so often...

...easily solved by uprating the spring, or adding a washer or two to shim it out....

If you have a standard recirc BOV, and think it might be weak, borrow someone else's, or blank it off for a bit...just take it easy if you do...

Hope to help..

JonB

tinduckracing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18792-auto-issue/#findComment-419665
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...