Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

well my stock r32 turbo is on its last legs due to the fact that any + boost applied causes a sound which could only be explained as a the sphincter of the universe stuck in a blender. I have purchased a s2 r33 turbo from a forum member and I’m going to get it put in ASAP. I just have a couple of questions as I need to make sure I don’t forget to buy anything ect. Basically I’m on a very strict budget so I really can’t make any mistakes

That’s where you guys come in J

My current setup:

r32 gts-t 93,000ks manual

Rb20det

gtr fuel pump

serviced stock injectors

new plugs

pod

3” front pipe back exhaust

boost gauge

a/f gauge

parts to go on

3” split dump pipe

flying fuel adjustable pressure regulator

FMIC

Q1

I have a cold starting issue which causes the car to take 5-6 tried before it starts and I have to flutter the accelerator pedal to get it to lump over else it won’t start. Once the car starts and revs over 2000rpm it idles and drives fine I believe it’s due to low fuel pressure so I have purchased a flying adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge so I can check it out and troubleshoot further. Do you think it is fuel pressure?????

Q2

I’m not doing to turbo swap myself so I wonder about cost of install as I need to get the dump put on and the FPR install. (I know the FPR is easy to install but the stock reg screws are threaded and I can’t think of a way to get it off.) Any ideas?????

Q3

if I did put the reg on myself what if its set to high can it stuff or blow my engine trying to start it??

Thanks guys hope there is enough info for you

please help

Q2

I’m not doing to turbo swap myself so I wonder about cost of install as I need to get the dump put on and the FPR install. (I know the FPR is easy to install but the stock reg screws are threaded and I can’t think of a way to get it off.) Any ideas?????

Q3

if I did put the reg on myself what if its set to high can it stuff or blow my engine trying to start it??

Thanks guys hope there is enough info for you

please help

Q2 should be about 6 hours to do the install

Q3 you really need to get a fuel pressure gauge and set it correctly otherwise you risk flooding the motor or starving it, both of which are not good.

well my stock r32 turbo is on its last legs due to the fact that any + boost applied causes a sound which could only be explained as a the sphincter of the universe stuck in a blender.

Where can I get a turbo like that from?!

I'm not an expert but here's my ideas:

1) I have a similar problem with cold starting. It wants to stall, though i tap the throttle and it's fine. Seems to be lack of fuel pressure i reckon too. Don't know if the pressure regulator will help, ask someone to put it on if you're not 100% confident. Maybe your fuel filter is dirty and slows everything down.

2) The turbo install, well far as i know most workshops are about $60-$80 an hour. Might end up costing you 3-$400 approx to get it put on. Get some quotes. Go for quality work first (duh), not dirt cheap. Yeh get them to add the dump while you're there. It's not a big thing to screw it to the turbo and saves you the work for a little extra cash.

3) Same as 1. I don't have one so i'm not sure about how to set it, so make sure it's done right either by you or a mechanic.

You probably already know, but stock R33 turbos aren't strong so keep it to 11-12psi max.

Good luck mate. Enjoy the extra power :thumbsup:

turbo, dump, o2 sensor all at once.

Call nissco on 9761 4743, say ryan sent you. I go there coz the work is top notch and the service is awesome.

GKtech dump pipe is ~100$

-Ryan

thanks for the info guys, awesome as usual. im gunna take it into a performance shop and get there ideas on the situation aswell. its just that from my experience you guys know more that any shop i have taken the car to seriously.

fpr's should be set to 1:1 by default and once its put in it can then be modified right??? i just need the guage side if things so i can see the pressure drop/raise. as the injectors/fuel pump and filter have been done i can only think that fuel is len its does start eaking back to the tank causing me to have to pump the pedal to get it to started.

even when it does start it does so very slowly and i can hear each cylinder firing for 3 seconds or so then it picks up and is fine. sometimes i hear a popping sound coming from the engine in that 3 second period as well. whats that??????

skylines, so many problems so little money

man i must love my car to put up with this.

ok,

you havent mentioned whether the turbo comes with the compressor outlet elbow or not. You WILL need this part.

Other than that it is just gaskets and putting a nipple somewhere on the intercooler piping for the wastegate actuator.

The rest bolts up turbo wise.

My car does a similar thing when cold starting but it is because it runs rich. get someone to start the car for you when it is cold

while you are looking at the exhaust. when it first fires up check to see if it blows any smoke

Q1 - Buying the FPR was prolly a little premature. The idle control valve, or stepper, should open sufficiently to start the car. If you need to feather the throttle; maybe give it a clean. Check the ECU for error codes, clean AFM etc etc. Rape the forums search button for others experiances.

Q2 - Use a penetrator on the screw and let soak... then use some multi grips around the outside of it. Try a "ezi out" if not previous doesn't work. Set the base to 43-45psi fuel pressure.

Q3 - Setting the pressure too high or too low will stop it from starting, but it wont blow up. Setting the pressure too high and running it for a long time could coke your combustion chamber. Setting the pressure too low and running it could blow your motor up.

If you have some basic tools, patience and are able to use the search button on this forum, you should be able to save your self the labour by fitting turbo and dump. I would leave the FPR unless your getting the thing tuned / chipped in the future.

Edited by GeeTR
hi guys this is a link to pics of the turbo i got http://members.dodo.com.au/n0ob

does this have a compressor outlet elbow????

Nope. The middle picture from your link. The silver side on the left is the compressor cover, containing the compressor wheel. The bit pointing down, is the outlet, and a flanged elbow would bolt on there i would assume.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...