Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah im thinking i want to do the same

anyone have a R33 stock air box would like to swap for pod filter

PM me will put up in the wanted section later

I believe so! I've got a HKS pod under it. Its only there to appear stock ... so is the rest of the work to the bay. Got to keep it looking stock as a bone :)

I'm also replacing my plugs and ensuring the gap is 0.8mm.

Mmmmm ... coilpacks :D

With coppers. Best/cheapest place to grab them is Motor Traders at around $2.85 per plug. Else where pay the usual $4.40 per plug. Which really isn't that much anyway.

RB20/25/26

BCPR6E for stock power to around 250-300rwkw. 0.8mm pregapped.

BKR7E-11 for powers 250rwkw+. 1.1mm pregapped need to gap down to 0.6-0.8mm depending on boost.

The two above plugs are the v-groove type.

I find they last a good 20,000km's. By 30,000km's they are beginning to look quite rounded. :)

I run the BKR7E's have absolutely no issues with fouling. At 268rwkw the BCPR6E's were coming out a looking a little hot, the BKR7E's heat range is spot on and look nicely tanned.

If you have issues with fouling the car is running way too rich and really should be sorted.

doing some window shopping :)

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=13050

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=12821

one needs a bit of an engine bay clean up but is cheap!

Edited by Damo_R34

ok i took my coilpack cover off....

started the car waited 20mins or so to hit full operating temp...

nothing...

so i drove it and still NOTHING

so i have come to the conclusion that it may be getting hot under the cover at full opp temp?

i guess i drive it with the cover off till my spitfires arrive.. is it ok to leave the cover off??

and i correct in saying that this was prob the problem?

cheers

no, 120 the set, Simon32 says just get copper there fine you just may need to replace them sooner

iridiums are meant to last longer thats why there dearer oh and there made of iridium i guess

blow me down! i just ripped one out and its ngk irridum.. looks fairly clean and its gapped to 1.0 or something, will close them all down to 0.7 and see how i go.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...