Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$220, that was a touch up on an existing tune.

Sweet. Now that I got my fueling and CAS fixed, I wanna get the Stagea on the rollers to get back those lost ponies.

Did a compression check a while ago and thankfully no compression loss or blown rings etc. Thankful that I babied the stag around when I knew it wasn't running right.

I wanna get to that turbo/dump gasket leak this weekend too.

damo that boost curve looks consistent with the r34 turbo

a really good ebc may fix up the peak & hold boost, or better yet a fully tuneable computer

as it is it isnt a bad tune...

i have a power fc, but a shit boost tee.

ah simple then, save for the power fc boost controller - scour ebay, JPS Trading Ltd is a good trader to search thru

you can see where the boost T isnt cutting the mustard from 80-120kmph

see how a decent boost controller works better ?

post-18854-1253667227_thumb.jpg

edit: the dropping off of boost was from restricted exhaust, much flatter now at the pointy end of the graph

tune of new piggyback ecu on 8th Oct, update then with a 250+ kw tune map

If you still have the factory boost solenoid in line then i expect if you had a your boost graphed then this is what it would look like (This is a mates figure from his 33). How much boost are you running? Is yours an auto or manual because that figure looks a bit low to me (depending on boost). The other thing that would be playing a part in the hole is the VTC timing not being perfect.

ZacsDynoFigure.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls

scan0001-2.jpg

still dropping off - but fuelling is the issue here

again, on 8th oct bigger injectors slot in, so will update some graphs for discussion.

Id suggest damo that a better ebc will do the job well. p-fc boost controller.

see how a decent boost controller works better ?

post-18854-1253667227_thumb.jpg

edit: the dropping off of boost was from restricted exhaust, much flatter now at the pointy end of the graph

tune of new piggyback ecu on 8th Oct, update then with a 250+ kw tune map

Where is the dropping off boost shown?

If you still have the factory boost solenoid in line then i expect if you had a your boost graphed then this is what it would look like (This is a mates figure from his 33). How much boost are you running? Is yours an auto or manual because that figure looks a bit low to me (depending on boost). The other thing that would be playing a part in the hole is the VTC timing not being perfect.

The graph says 10-11psi, when he rang i said around 10.5psi would be fine, and i assume thats what its on, hard to read from factory bar guage. Its a manual.

Its a turbosmart bleed valve, and always has lost boost from 4000ish to redline since it was fitted.

:D This is gonna sound pretty gay. But for some reason Damo, You were in a dream of mine last night. And you drove a VT commodore.

Thats sweet Craig. and by "drove a VT Commodore" i hope you mean "watched you have sex with Megan Fox"

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to !
    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
×
×
  • Create New...