Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been reading for years that the N1 pump just has a higher rated spring over the standard pump

I just read this

www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/39978-n1-oil-punp-upgrade.html+N1+oil+pump&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=5&gl=us

is this true? Or did this person pick up a Nismo pump rather an N1?

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189044-n1-oil-pump-flow-more-than-factory/
Share on other sites

n1 oil pump pumps around 25% more oil than standard. theyre a high flowing oil pump.

if you're using one on a high revving engine make sure you do the oil feed mod to your block as it can empty your entire sump 25% quicker :cool:

high pressure pumps increase oil pressure throughout the rev range.

you can make any oil pump have a harder spring, just tighten the big bolt on it. all this does is raises or lowers the peak oil pressure.

it works on the same principal a wastegate works on.

  • 2 weeks later...

I was under the impression N1 oil pumps flow "LESS" than factory ones.

they are designed for constant hi revs.

and being that the RB's all have oil control problems, where by too much oil gets pushed to the head, the N1 designed for that sort of situation flows LESS.

Same goes for the N1 water pumps compared to other RB water pumps.

thats true but only for the N1 water pumps. they flow less at low rpm because they were designed mainly for vehicles that are track dedicated or vehicles that are driven hard (sustain high revs, often) and are fed a higher volume of water at higher rpm where they spend most of their time.

N1 oil pumps flow more all over the rev range. they are a 'high volume' pump which means more oil and higher pressures. i've got one in my car and my std gauge reads a little higher than what it used to before the build.

Well the thing is I've always *read* the n1 pump just has a higher rated spring. I've never came across something otherwise until recently. Even sydneykid said so himself

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1668325

Higher pressure doesn't substaniated higher volume. You can have higher pressure with the same volume.

Edited by maximajim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...