Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

im looking at building an s13 silvia drift car....im thinking rb25det, 180sx front & r32 rear end.

now im not concerned about the 180 front or rb25....only about the r32 rear end...here are my questions.

1) can it be done?

2) if it can be done, how difficult is it & what needs to be done?

if you have attempted this or know someone who has plz get in contact with me.

would of posted on ns.com, but thought i'd try here first.....aslo tried search but nothing came up.

cheers

Andrew ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189382-custom-s13-rear-end-possible/
Share on other sites

Never heard of anyone attempting to put a 32 end on a s13/silvia before. If you've got the money, anything can be done. Wouldn't have a clue how easy/hard it would be, but I've never seen it done so I'm going to say it'll cost quite a lot, or it's a hard job.

I've seen R32 rear lights crammed into a 180sx, complete custom fabrication which shouldn't be too hard if you're handy and have nothing better to do.

There's also been at least 1 fairly good attempt chucking an R32 front end on an S13 chassis which worked alright, so that can be done.

As for the rear, theres nothing off the shelf which I can think of to make this easy, about the only thing that 'may' work is an R32 widebody kit with a fairly humongous amount of fiddling put into the anchor points where it bolts on. Bumper would be much the same case, modified bit of aftermarket kit.

I sort of shudder to think of the amount of bog and glass it'll require to hide the gaps... then, being a drift car, it's gunna get f**ken smashed into something sideways and yep, well, kinda rich to fix. >_<

Are you sure it wasn't a r32 with a silvia front that you saw? that would be alot easier.

well if it wasn't a silvia, im from pluto :rofl: nar, i compared an r32 & an s13 on my comp to verify it was an s13....guess i was hoping i could do it, but luck doesn't seem to be on my side ;)

engine swap + rear end... like everyoen said just get an R32 and slap the s13 front on it..... i dont think that would look good because the s13 front is narrower .... i just cant see it as a good mix.

not going for looks, as it will be a drift car....so yer dunno yet **edit: just realised why am i going for 32 rear end if not for looks? well guess i want it to be unique**

It would be far easier and cheaper to stick a 180 front on an R32. Plus the engine swap would be a bit less hassle too.

Ryan "Jilted" from SilviaWa made one here in perth about two years ago. First one in Australia we believe.

Pic1 :sorcerer:

Pic2 :sorcerer:

It is easier to put R32 lights into a 180sx as the shapes are the same and it requires extensive modification to the low garnish under the lighs ie a custom made one of garnish.

But it has been done...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...