Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Too right, I use THIS SITE to find mine. But you can just google "Nintendo DS roms" or something and any site will do.

Bought one of these r4ds's as gift for someone for Christmas. Just wondering if I load it full of games from this site will the games be in English?

No region issues with the ds. the only thing is, chinese roms can only be played on chinese ds units, that's more a limitation of the hardware in ds's sold outside china not being able to cope with characters. Its for this reason you don't see many chinese nds roms on english websites, yet plenty of japanese/eur/usa roms.

awesome links guys, order will be placed tonight.

xmas pressie delimer solved.

they should sticky this thread here ;)

howie i was wondering wtf you were talking about at scs. it all makes sense now

Edited by gzilla
quick noob question, are these sd cards it uses like the really small 1s that go in your phone or like the style that come out of camera's.

i dont know jack about em just been told their different.

MicroSD are used in alot of appliances, like phones and cameras. But they vary between brands, for example R4DS has incompatibilities with some non-kingston branded chips.

I don't think it's illegal to back up your software and playing home brews on your R4DS card. The sony mod-chip case proved that.

Additional, i don't condone piracy, i believe software vendors are struggling, that's why i always purchase a game if I really enjoy it. Same with DVD's and CD's. But there's a distinction between piracy and having something in the public domain where anyone can have access to software, chances are the games and software that these have been built upon are based on tools us software developers have written and given for free on the internet - they can make money from our inventions, but they really can't stop you from trialling their software.

well i think its a lot more convienient carrying 1 game catridge with all your games you have paid for the ds on it, than a bag full of 20 of the lil bugga's.

plus that way you can keep the originals minto :) dont think it can top my minto cd's collection :( ive got crazy old cd's that look like they just came out the shop cause i only use copy's in my car, which saved me a crapload when my last car got broken into and they took em all :D u only got cheap copy's sucka's

Edited by gzilla

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...