Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the tomie reytec is a great ecu but they do not make it for the r33 gts-t only gtr. you can use the gtr one but it does requirer some playing around.

if you can find someone to tune it get the greddy emanage ulimate great ecu and best bang for bucks ecu atm.

dont go pfc, for the style reason it was such good because it was only $900, now prices are upwards of $1200 it no longer has it bang for bucks appeal, and it is dated ecu, much better systems out there for similar price

Edited by [Michael]

Ahk fair enough, ive heard some pretty bad things about the greddy emanage, but a few people have said that the ultimate is a lot better bit of gear?

At this stage im still leaning towards a pfc if i can find one for the right price, im definitely not willing to pay over 1k for one, even though its getting harder and harder to find one at that price.

The Autronic SM4 will do whatever you want, it's up there with Motec and Haltech if the tuner knows what they are doing. One of the peculiarities of the SM4 is that you need to get a custom trigger disc installed into your crank angle sensor (someone correct me if I'm wrong, I think that's the terminology). From my recent reading, it appears to be a very capable unit. Especially if your tuner can use the auto-tune feature. But again, a lot less people have experience with this than the Haltech, which is similarly priced and has very similar features.

Seriously, ECU is one of the times you DON'T want to try being different just for the sake of it. I know it's been said a bajillion times, but go with whatever your trusted mechanic/tuner likes to use.

You would be correct with the trigger disk into the crank angle sensor.

I am running a SM4 in my car and it is brilliant does everything, and I have a guy who can tune it where I live.

The SM4 also has a electonic boost controller (this is about an extra $200 - $300 dolllars),

The auto tune feature is brilliant as you type in you air fuel ratio you want to achieve and go driving, the ecu will do the rest.

(though you do need someone to tune it as there is a little more to it with the fuel value table and temp table).

Draconis go to here and ring one of the dealers and have a chat.AUTRONIC

I recommed Ray Hall for information cause he sells these world wide.

Thanks guys. I went over this a year back and was getting ready for a PFC but then when I got down to it, it's price increased greatly over here and they are incredibly hard to find. And those who do have it, will charge quite a bit... even with my contacts... they cant help me. So I've been looking for an alternative, a friend told me about the autrontic and read up on some threads. Actually this thread has given me more choices than I thought. I am not trying to be different... I know that much when it comes to ECUs, but I'm trying to find something that is good and has a good track record. And When it comes to the RB engines, it's either the Japanese or the Aussies who know what's going on. Very few here in the States fully understand everything about it... and those who do are in a different state... damn... I wish I didnt move from that state.

after much deliberation of my own, Finally got myself a pfc! yay! from japan, thanks to a link in paulr33's sig. Car already feels better and it hasn't even been tuned yet just running on the base map it comes with, can't wait to get it tuned on wed, and feel the better response and midrange - silky smooth power curve mmmmm.... :)

  • 3 weeks later...

the only down side to a pfc, is it cant control knock. from the article, the eprom and reytec can. difference between these 2(from article) is you can keep programming the reytec without replacing the eprom all the time. anyone feel free to correct me if im wrong. thats just my understanding...

as for myself, depending on the specs of reytec, injector drivers and such, i will be looking at haltec or motec. pricy, but very tunable.

in the end, it all comes down to how far you will end up taking the car, how much protection you want(knock control), and how much youre willing to spend. hope this has helped.

just started to read up on reytec, sounds promising(SOUNDS). no airflow meter, but the downside, no 02 sensor??

ill try and paste a link(never done this before http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...dex-reytec.html

see if this works...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...