Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done a bit of research since my clutch is on the way out

My Skyl has done 70,000 km so far.

Brisbane / Gold Coast based companies;

1. Direct Clutch Services, Brisbane -Steve (07) 3862 2680

Heavy Duty Daiken: $487

Hi Torque Clutch (Organic) 2800 lbs: $587 (good for 350 hp)

{Direct Clutch manufacture this one themselves, own compound}

Ceramic Clutch: $687

Installation: $300.00

Machine flywheel: $33.00

2. Global Auto's, Labrador-Jason

Standard Daiken: $480

Heavy Duty Daiken: $650

Ceramic: $1,000

3. Trevor, Gold Coast- 0414 868 555

Standard Daiken: $420

Heavy Duty Daiken: $700

Sports Ceramic: $600 {different compund used here}

Ceramic: $1,000

4. Wright Clutch Services Mark, Lismore- (02) 6621 6495

Ceramic: $450 {manufactured themselves, Cushioned, 6 spring hub and 5 pucks, still feels light on the clutch pedal}

5. Gavin Wood, Labrador -Gavin (07)5529 2313

Standard Daiken: $546 (Fitted)

Heavy Duty Daiken: $850 (Fitted)

Ceramic: $1,210

Brass Button: $910

Allow $300 for install roughly Gearbox oil included

Anyone else add anything to this or knows of any other reliable workshops or cheaper clutch places.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18973-clutches-and-prices/
Share on other sites

Hot - too good to pass up.

I also have been in contact with Daiken / Exedy Australia. I asked for distributers in Brisbane and asked about lightened flywheels. Here's what I got back:

Start quote.

We do have lightened flywheels part no: ( NF01 ). The weight is 6.68kg. Made of billet chrome moly and ductile iron.

There are two heavy duty organic kits. First one is part no:

( R5028NHD ). Which is a new assembly the cover is pivot modified for increased clamp. The second one is part no:

( SKO-5028 ) Which is a factory heavy duty. The clutch plate has hi torque springs and premium facings.

You will have to purchase from one of our distributors.

Southside :

Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch : PH: 38088193

Northside:

Advanced Mobile Machining Service: PH: 0411157535

End quote.

From what I can tell, the first clutch described is the one to go for, I am currently confirming this with him. Will let you know.

How about we go for a bit of a dual purchase - maybe get it for a few bucks cheaper?

In all, I am a little confused - all I want is one of the Exedy heavy duty organic clutch and lightened flywheel - it's hard to get a straight answer so far.

Confirmation ****************

Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch : PH: 3808 8193

Both part no's above are nothing compared to the quality and price of a Nissan Patrol H/D clutch for $320.00

which fits straight up into the Skyliner.

1,068 kg rated and for the price come on......

Lightened flywheel is about $650 +gst

quick run down;

( R5028NHD ) = Sports Organic Clutch Kit. $490 + gst

(same pressue plate as Nissan Patrol one)

( SKO-5028 ) = Heavy Duty Clutch : $520 +gst

(915 kg rated...but a light pressure plate)

so none of these come close in price and quality compred to the Nissan patrol one.

Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch said if we buy 2X Nissan patrol Heavy Duty kits we can have them for........

ring me if u r still interested 0418 771 908

I got my new clutch fitted.........here's the info....

1. 1x Exedy Daiken Clutch (Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch) =$313.50 including GST

2. Installation, Gearbox oil, Fly wheel Machined, Spinnner bearing Replaced =$300.00 (Gavin Wood)

My car drives and changes 100 % better now. Doesn't crunch anymore.....heaps sensitive on the clutch though.

Clutch is still light to operate....pulls seconds and thirds harder !!

damn already. my clutch just went today. VERY VERY VERY PISSED OFF. So yeah - can u recommend me somewhere i can get it done? I dont need a heavy duty clutch, just something normal for my car - car is being sold in 6 months. So nothing fancy required. And whats the best place to the clutch fitted at a decent price?

Yeah i have, gettin my clutch done 2day, SOme ****heads vandalise my car yesterday! 2 days NOT in garage and it gets ****ed up! ARH! . well my clutch goin in the workshop at cooper plains place, he matched the price and beat it for installation, fly wheel etc. wat an awesome guy. I'll tell more pplz laterz, when i get his name card,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...