Jump to content
SAU Community

Aircon Turns On By It Self

33_skyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

33_skyline Enthusiast

33_skyline

Posted
Posted (edited)

Due to some modifications to my car (R33 GTS-t), We have hooked my thermo fan to switch on when a certain temperature is reached.

The Problem

the A/C blows cold air onto my feet when the the AC is switched off. We have fitted a diode so that it doesn't send an electric signal to the aircon

however it still blow air.

We even disconnected the aircon and now it just blow normal air.

This only happens when the thermo switches on once a certain temp is reached.

Any ideas how to solve this problem?

Edited by 33_skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189740-aircon-turns-on-by-it-self/
Share on other sites
anomaly Enthusiast

anomaly

Posted
Posted
take it to an electrician dude, sounds like youve made the a/c earth when the thermo comes on :)

my stock 33 series 2 blows air at my feet when the control is off, which is annoying but i dont think its air conditioned, just the fan blowing

still annoying i cant control it tho

33_skyline Enthusiast

33_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
take it to an electrician dude, sounds like youve made the a/c earth when the thermo comes on ;)

I will let the guy doing all the mods to my car know and he will check that, he has done the majority of the electrical work.

won't go to an auto electrician last time they disconnected wires and hooked them to the wrong place, we found out when tuning it

and the ecu had heaps of errors & warnings.

my stock 33 series 2 blows air at my feet when the control is off, which is annoying but i dont think its air conditioned, just the fan blowing

still annoying i cant control it tho

that is something to remember though mine is no longer stock and it is

diffently aircon cause it freezes my feet, but yeah same problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...