Jump to content
SAU Community

Hey Folks

Jumz

By Jumz,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jumz Contributor

Jumz

Posted
Posted

:closedeyes: Hey guys, im just about to buy my first skyline, looking at an r34 Gt-t.

Im going nuts over the prospect of it in a few weeks and before i rush out and buy the 5th i look at,

has anyone got any tips from experience to convey?

i have a decent understanding of parts ect i just hold your opinions highly!

Cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189831-hey-folks/
Share on other sites
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

The best bit of advice I can give is....buy my one, click the link below, own the legend that is 666DAN :closedeyes:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t180592.html

On another note, having owned 2 x R34's check the following things-

Have they got splitfires (the stock packs *will* die, this is ~$500 cost)

Check for underbody rusting from floods or seaside life in Japan

Check the engine fault codes running the ECU diagnostic on the cars you look at (take a paperclip)

Sniff the radiator for signs of blown headgaskets

Check turbo condition, they die easily on R34's (ask if it's had a highflow job with steel wheels)

Do a basic check of all the normal car things

R34's however have very few other design faults so you should be able to find a good one :spam:

Welcome!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189831-hey-folks/#findComment-3420377
Share on other sites
Jumz Contributor

Jumz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

awesome ride man :spam: over the last few months iv made the tough decision to look for a manual though, nothings final though so you might here from me later!

iv looked pretty thoroughly at ur car earlier so ill remember it :closedeyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189831-hey-folks/#findComment-3420480
Share on other sites
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
awesome ride man :spam: over the last few months iv made the tough decision to look for a manual though, nothings final though so you might here from me later!

iv looked pretty thoroughly at ur car earlier so ill remember it :closedeyes:

No probs...I've been trying to find a local buyer this week as my car may be going interstate to a new home, not set in concrete yet *phew* hahaha

She's a QLDer born er complied and bred up here :spam:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189831-hey-folks/#findComment-3420494
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...