Jump to content
SAU Community

Mr30 Hatch Manual 5 Speed Gearbox

wardie

By wardie,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

wardie Enthusiast

wardie

Posted
Posted

Can anyone confirm what type of 5 speed manual came with the MR30.

Was it the short FS5W71B or the long one?

Reason I ask is that I have two long boxes at home and on the weekend noticed that according to my Nissan manual the long box is for the L20 in the MR30 and there is supposed to be a short version (tail end of housing) for the L24.

I am yet to see a short box with stick shift at the wreckers. The only one I have seen is out of a 720 ute and it has column shift (RS5W71B).

Thanks

Wardie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190208-mr30-hatch-manual-5-speed-gearbox/
Share on other sites
wardie Enthusiast

wardie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for that Matty T.

I measured the auto box in mine and it's the same length as the long 5 speed and that seems that it would put the shift around the same place as the auto shift which is about right. As the auto and long manual boxes are the same length I was hoping I would be able to use the auto tail shaft. Well this was my original plan.

So now my plan is on hold and my next question is - has anyone successfully fitted the long box into a MR30 or do I have to start looking for a stumpy box and matching tail shaft?

Wardie

nixcars Collaborator

nixcars

Posted
Posted
Thanks for that Matty T.

I measured the auto box in mine and it's the same length as the long 5 speed and that seems that it would put the shift around the same place as the auto shift which is about right. As the auto and long manual boxes are the same length I was hoping I would be able to use the auto tail shaft. Well this was my original plan.

So now my plan is on hold and my next question is - has anyone successfully fitted the long box into a MR30 or do I have to start looking for a stumpy box and matching tail shaft?

Wardie

Wardie, it wont fit, you'll have to cut a new hole further back which will mean the gearstick would be level with your hip.

If you're after a stumpy five speed, I'm wrecking one so have everything you need.

Nick, Ph 0416 283 194.

wardie Enthusiast

wardie

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the offer nixcars. As I said in the SMS I am on a fairly tight budget as I am between jobs right now so I'm going to have to put the project on hold and keep looking.

I do have 2 x long boxes, 3 x flywheels, 1 x new clutch/pressure plate kit, pedal box, shifter & shifter rubber boot. I did have a re-con master cyl but have lent that to my BiL to use on his 720 ute.

What I need to get is 1 x short box, matching tail shaft front section, spigot bush, slave cyl and hose. I am happy to swap my two long boxes for a working short box if anyone is interested.

Wardie

Edited by wardie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...