Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

omfg!!!!! i got this problem yesterday, i got a non turbo car too! >.< manual 1999 r34 25gt 84kms. out of no where my car seems like it was gona stall when i revved it abit, i went home, just before my driveway my car stalled.... i started it back up and drove in my house, i popped the bonnet because that shit ain't normal i knew something was wrong.... when i gave it abit of revs its starts making a noise. i was hearing these 'click noise'..... then my car was about to stall sometimes it really did stall. i checked the oil and it was really low, my mate said my oils really low thats why its doing that, making that noise and about to stall. i didn't drive my car until i came back home with a new bottle of high performance oil and a new oil filter. i done that today with 2 of my mates. the noise was still der...... i decided to take my car to a mechanic, on the way der my car stalled like 7 times when i was at a red light, i had the clutch down and i was in gear 1. when i got to the mechanic, he didn't really know what the noise was, and these guys work on skylines everyday. he put my car up to a computer and checked everything. he said the engines fine every things running normal. he thinks its got to do with circuit, for example i put in a different fuel and the car got sensors.. he reseted everything and he said it should be ok, if it continues to stall bring it back in. i took off and was back driving around hoping it wont stall or anymore problems atm its fine, i think the clicking noise might be still there i'll check tomorrow.

anyone else with this problem or heard anything like this.

i have a question. if a piston was blown how can you find out will it make this noise? or no noise at all just lose power. weird bcoz my car feels like its got the same power but feels differnt bcoz i dont know if it will stall again lol >.< shatted days!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
    • I don't think he's got it on a gauge and on the ECU. I think he's got it on the gauge and on the HPTuners DAq thingo. Remember, we're talking about oil temp here, not something that the ECU is actually interested in for its own sake.
×
×
  • Create New...