Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at solutions to my problem of getting my rb20det running right at arround mid to high 300hp next year when i install a new plenum, top mount turbo setup with a turbonetic turbo and GTR 444cc injectors, fuel pump and SARD regulator with my own fabed turbo to catback exaust.

I'm really interested in how simple the Apexi SAFC looks to be and i'm curious if this would be good enough to tune my engine to run a safe air fuel with 444cc injectors and 14-18psi boost. This would only be what i'd use for next summer and i'm gonna do a full build up with probably a greddy E-manage ultimate or a stand alone computer. This year all i want is a safe air fuel with the setup i want because this year i'm getting all the right bolt ons and want them plumbed and capable of 700hp (with a larger fuel pump then the GTR one i'll use next year) when my engine gets built enough to use the full potential of the Turbonetic turbo.

I'm gonna run it at 8psi off the bat and work my way up till i know how to use the unit enough to confidently turn up the wick to 330hp-380hp (no i dont respect the internals).

Any knowageable help would be aprreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/
Share on other sites

Nope, they just don't have enough features or ability to do the job.

Here is what I would do.

1. Two ECU options:

a. GTR Powerfc, and Harness. Probably about $1400, and fully tunable by you or lots of tuners.

b. Remapped RB20 ECU - not many options in regards to tuners, but they apparently do quite a good job.

2. Forget about the Fuel pressure regulator. Standard GTR injectors at standard rail pressure will scratch 400rwhp. (75% sure on that one, if not 400rwhp, then pretty damn close)

3. I think the Standard Plenum should do the trick, I know the RB25's support heaps of power (500hp) not sure on the RB20

4. The RB20 will laugh at 18psi. (AS long as its not f**ked already). Put 20psi into her ;)

5. Go and find yourself a 3.0l bottom end, and hopefully one day you'll trip over a RB25DE head..

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/#findComment-3426787
Share on other sites

Sorry to jack your thread.

Mafia your saying to throw 20psi on his rb20 engine.

If it was a healthy engine will it cope with it? And for how long?

How much boost can you put into a stock rb25 engine safely that is?

well, I've seen RB20's handle 18psi ok (after market turbo of course) I'm running 18psi - 20psi with water methanol injection.

RB25 should take 18psi easy as long as its not pinging. There are people here that have them turned up to 21psi, but I don't know how they went.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/#findComment-3427447
Share on other sites

Now i'm thinin 18-22psi (22psi as a second boost setting that works in conjunction to a water/metholinjection system). So if the Apexi unit is out of the question then is their any problems with using a Greddy Emanage Ultimate unit with the Profec e01 boost controller i'm ordering. I figure the Profec unit should beable to go really nicely into the spot where the ash try sits and as a data logger and programmer tthe Emaage unit it would be a really sharp setup.

Will i beable to even start my car once i've got GTR injectors, a supporting fuel pump and regulator with all new turbo setup or will my computer say "no way"? And once it's started would it be fairly straight forward for me to tune the wir fuel good enough to bring it somewhere? I'd probably need it to be driveable even if it's running way to rich as a respectable tuning shop is no less then 8-10 hours drive away and i dont even know of one off hand. I'm sure i could tune it half descent if i could get it running.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/#findComment-3431453
Share on other sites

emanage is the better option by far. with the gtr injectors your car will start and run as long as you install the resistor pack along with the injectors. if you get the emanage make sure you get a support tool (computer software and cable) aswell.

i don't know about the EMU but on my emanage blue when i install new injectors, i can go into the settings and tell the emanage that my old injectors where 270cc (rb20det standard inj) and the new ones are 444cc (gtr inj) it does the correction itself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/#findComment-3431777
Share on other sites

Just on the topic .. my mate is running 20 psi through what we think is a stock turbo (could be high flowed but it came from japan like that, so we think its stock) its been running issue free for a good 1.5 years ..

However some turbos can do it some cant I guess.

To clarify its a rb20 gtst

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/#findComment-3431803
Share on other sites

emanage is the better option by far. with the gtr injectors your car will start and run as long as you install the resistor pack along with the injectors. if you get the emanage make sure you get a support tool (computer software and cable) aswell.

i don't know about the EMU but on my emanage blue when i install new injectors, i can go into the settings and tell the emanage that my old injectors where 270cc (rb20det standard inj) and the new ones are 444cc (gtr inj) it does the correction itself.

haha thats the best news i've heard all year. Thank you very much, my biggest headache has now been cured. Now i can confidently order in parts knowing i wont have the pritiest GTS-T inside and outside the engine compartment and it wont be as a garage show peice. Strangely enough, hearing about the e-manage self correcting for injector size (rough tune i soppose but good enough to workoff) is the same day i got offered a better job at work.

Greddy E-Manage Blue and Profec e01 boost controller allong with a new battery for my lap top are gonna be on their way in the next month or so. But i have till late April to early May to get it ready and a little more after till the roads are cleared.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190233-apexi-safc/#findComment-3436403
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...