Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SOLD SOLD SOLD

Make: nissan

Model: r33 gtst skyline

Colour: maroon

Location: carseldine qld

Price: $12,000 price drop $10000

Contact: MITCH 0410627751

Comments / Modifications: engine was done by boosted extremes had about $13000 spent on engine photos on http://www.boostedxtremes.com.au/. fully rebuilt engine with forged internals, port and polished head with race valves and springs, cams, custom plenum, custom exhaust manifold, gt35r turbo, fuel pressure regulator, custom intercooler piping and fmic, bov, 2 stage boost controler, remapped computer. front bar has been repaired and is in primer.car comes with DRR33 plates

Images: post-42725-1193043527_thumb.jpg post-42725-1193043968_thumb.jpgpost-42725-1193043983_thumb.jpg

Edited by DRR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190279-fs-qld-1993-gtst-r33-10000/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey mate not sure how much power its making but ive been told that its will make 400hp+ atw, going to strip this weekend for qtr mile time, got 5 spoke 17s, body is good but needs paint has been painted by previous owner but needs to be redone, no sunroof, there is more stuff on the car than i said but cant think of it.

Edited by DRR33
car currently running on 10psi will make 300kw atw on this settin but with a good dyno tune and more boost can make a lot more.

your car is making 300rwkw on 10psi with a gt35 turbo?

and can make more with better tune and more boost?

or am I reading that wrong?

a little from column A and little from column B.

I know what I'm talking about and being a smart arse.

if you think that your RB25 makes 300rwkw using standard capacity and a GT35 on 10psi, you're either a YANK or you're confuisng KW with HP.

Maybe you should have your "seat of the pants" dyno re-calibrated.

car currently running on 10psi will make 300kw atw on this settin but with a good dyno tune and more boost can make a lot more.
had car dynoed at rotary motorsports last week

6psi-258hp

18psi-320hp

leaned out at 5500rpm needs fuel system upgraded

:worship::P

Wow...

so it made 258HP (192.5kw) on 6psi

and 320HP (238.8kw) on 18psi.

But it makes 402HP (300kw) on 10psi like you said before?

Must need a tune..

Or does the turbo start turning backwards after 10 psi?

Maybe you can go back and edit your BULLSHIT posts.

then have a moderator delete this post for bagging out your bullshit lies.

is that all, u got that from a gt35r my mate nearly gets that from his hiflow but still a nice car, so wats missing to make this a 300rwkw monsta

thanks mate

well i found out that it still running standard fuel system, no cam gears, no aftermarket ecu, also running rb20 airflow meter, no aftermarket coil packs and its runnin a stock auto.

car has never been dyno tuned so this car has so much potential.

ben at rotary motorsports said with all this done and a few hours on the dyno it will pull 300kw easy.

Edited by DRR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...