Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, just thought i'd ask, i've noticed sometimes when i'm driving my car there is an evident ticking noise its only when i put my foot on the accelerator. but it is only intermittent, for example driving to work today it happened until i got to the servo, i turned the car off and went inside, i came out and turned it back on and nothing. but then when i was almost at work it started again. Would this be a leaking manifold?

i had a ticking noise aswell awhile back turned out afew of my exhaust manifold studs were snapped and the gasket had split and was creating a ticking noise. Replaced studs and gasket all is good now.

an exhaust leak would be more obvious when cold.

the metal (manifld, gaskets etc) all expand a little with heat and the exhaust leak will not be as noticible and if small enough, not there at all.

then you will hear it again after the car has cooled a little and you turn it back on.

since your one came back later in the drive like when you were near work, I'd say it's something other than a leak.

also, if it had a small leak to cause a ticking on idle, it would mean that you would hear a really loud shreeking screaming sound when on boost as it will really leak from there.

does the ticking increase a decrease with revs?

as in tick tick at idle becomes a faster ticking at say 2000rpm?

It sounds like a/the lifter/s to me.

search for "ticking lifters" maybe something will come up.

they can be removed and serviced but I don't think it's easy

well if the exhaust all of a sudden got really loud and struggled and no boost etc I'd say that you should at least visually check and feel that all the bolts are on the manifold to block and turbo to manifold and turbo to dump pipe.

If you lost all boost and got really loud, I'd take a guess that the manifold to block connection is fubar.

this would mean.. no exhaust gasses to turbo = no boost.

exhaust gasses escaping between block and exhaust manifold and not getting to turbo and exhaust would mean all that sound escaping without any muffling = loud exhaust sound.

there is a heat shield and stuff in the way so you won't be able to check it too easily without removing the heat shield (only a few bolts of which most bolts will break off)

I can't remember how many bolts/nuts there are for the manifold to block connection.

search for pics of RB20/25 manifold and you should be able to see how many holes there are and therefore how many bolts you were supposed to have.

the manifold might even be cracked..

OBVIOUS NOTE: if you are going to remove any bolts from that area.

1.) do it when the motor is cold.

2.) spray ALOT of wd40 on to all the bolts the night before you work on it and keep spraying some the next day when you want to remove the bolts. it will help them come off a little easier (still bloody hard though).

3.) Keep tissues, detol and banaids near by for your knuckles.

It probably is the manifold as you described the no boost and loud exhaust but also have a look at the gears on the front of your engine.

my car would some times make a ticking noise and then stop and then come back from time to time.

It turned out the bearing of my idler gear had gone and was only being held in place by the tention of the belt.

and +1 for the looking out for you knuckles. Those bolts are a bitch and you end up punching your engine a few times when they suddenly loosen or snap.

good luck anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...