Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, just thought i'd ask, i've noticed sometimes when i'm driving my car there is an evident ticking noise its only when i put my foot on the accelerator. but it is only intermittent, for example driving to work today it happened until i got to the servo, i turned the car off and went inside, i came out and turned it back on and nothing. but then when i was almost at work it started again. Would this be a leaking manifold?

i had a ticking noise aswell awhile back turned out afew of my exhaust manifold studs were snapped and the gasket had split and was creating a ticking noise. Replaced studs and gasket all is good now.

an exhaust leak would be more obvious when cold.

the metal (manifld, gaskets etc) all expand a little with heat and the exhaust leak will not be as noticible and if small enough, not there at all.

then you will hear it again after the car has cooled a little and you turn it back on.

since your one came back later in the drive like when you were near work, I'd say it's something other than a leak.

also, if it had a small leak to cause a ticking on idle, it would mean that you would hear a really loud shreeking screaming sound when on boost as it will really leak from there.

does the ticking increase a decrease with revs?

as in tick tick at idle becomes a faster ticking at say 2000rpm?

It sounds like a/the lifter/s to me.

search for "ticking lifters" maybe something will come up.

they can be removed and serviced but I don't think it's easy

well if the exhaust all of a sudden got really loud and struggled and no boost etc I'd say that you should at least visually check and feel that all the bolts are on the manifold to block and turbo to manifold and turbo to dump pipe.

If you lost all boost and got really loud, I'd take a guess that the manifold to block connection is fubar.

this would mean.. no exhaust gasses to turbo = no boost.

exhaust gasses escaping between block and exhaust manifold and not getting to turbo and exhaust would mean all that sound escaping without any muffling = loud exhaust sound.

there is a heat shield and stuff in the way so you won't be able to check it too easily without removing the heat shield (only a few bolts of which most bolts will break off)

I can't remember how many bolts/nuts there are for the manifold to block connection.

search for pics of RB20/25 manifold and you should be able to see how many holes there are and therefore how many bolts you were supposed to have.

the manifold might even be cracked..

OBVIOUS NOTE: if you are going to remove any bolts from that area.

1.) do it when the motor is cold.

2.) spray ALOT of wd40 on to all the bolts the night before you work on it and keep spraying some the next day when you want to remove the bolts. it will help them come off a little easier (still bloody hard though).

3.) Keep tissues, detol and banaids near by for your knuckles.

It probably is the manifold as you described the no boost and loud exhaust but also have a look at the gears on the front of your engine.

my car would some times make a ticking noise and then stop and then come back from time to time.

It turned out the bearing of my idler gear had gone and was only being held in place by the tention of the belt.

and +1 for the looking out for you knuckles. Those bolts are a bitch and you end up punching your engine a few times when they suddenly loosen or snap.

good luck anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
×
×
  • Create New...