Jump to content
SAU Community

metal headgasket  

4 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

hey all.. just contemplating weather to re use a MHG on a little project car has been running with it.. however i think a valve is stuck open causing complete loss of compression on a cylinder

motor is still together.. only couple hundred k's or so since it was put back together with the new mhg.. its a tomei 1.2mm MHG too if that makes any difference..

wat do people think

Edited by rb26s13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191175-mhg/
Share on other sites

I reused my cometic.

Unsure if its the best way but it appears to have worked well.

Cleaned the gasket with gasket stripper and scrubbed with some green scourer thing that I forget the name off (too late). Some of the vitron? coating came off.

I Let it dry and realised bits of gunk had got in between the layers so I removed the 2 rivets holding the gasket together and carefully cleaned each layer.

Each layer then copped a light coat of Hylomar

I put it together carefully, Then gave the 2 faces a coat of Hylomar. All up using 1 full large can of Hylomar.

Its been fine since. :O

Unless your on a super tight budget I'd simply grab another headgasket. They can be sourced for $300 ish if your prepared to wait a little.

Or there's the Cometic/ACL you can use. 'Some' have issues with them leaking; how I have no idea; I'm assuming the block and head finish wasn't finished to the specs required by cometic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191175-mhg/#findComment-3440276
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I had ordered the spherical bushings at the same time as the rest. I have high hopes for the anti squat reduction kit. 
    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
×
×
  • Create New...