Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ACT guys,

Hoping to buy and install an FMIC before the 11th for the skidpan day. Is the Type 1 JustJap kit reasonable bang for buck? I have the same intercooler (Bar and Plate 600x300x76 'Hybrid Copy') in the RS and has handled and cooled 18psi no worries.

Any info / ideas / suggestions would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/
Share on other sites

From what ive read those Just Jap ones require a lot of trimming and cutting (fan blades, under washer bottle, front reo bar and front bar)

Was looking at the ARC and Blitz LM FMICs which plug into stock pipes and pretty much fit right on without any trimming (except for reo) but they cost around $1000

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3441564
Share on other sites

I've noticed this as well Baconer. Was looking closely at the ARC kits, I just can't justify the extra cost for them as much. The Just Jap ones from what I read on the JJ posts is that it's all to do with the prep work so you don't have to trim the fan blades. Under washer bottle is easy sorted to fill the hole. As for the other trimming/cutting, i would expect that the Blitz LM and ARC kits require just as much cutting of the reo bar and front bar...

Thanks for the help though guys, its good to hear other peoples thoughts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3441670
Share on other sites

I've got the JJ kit in my 33. It's getting the job done, though I'm still running standard boost because I dont have time to get the boost gauge and controller put in to up it a but. Laziness ftw! Had to hack the front bar and reo to bits but I think that's pretty much a given for a FMIC regardless of what brand it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3441772
Share on other sites

Cheers for the info Sauce. I'm still runnin stock boost as well as the fuel pump is still standard... I'll be taking out my eboost2 from the subie later to install into it if I get bored.

The main thing I was really worried about was fitting the cooler piping across the radiator and having to cut the fan blades.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3441930
Share on other sites

cutting the fan blades is no big deal its a must as i fitted a similar fmic to my 33 the top pipe touches the bonnet so its as highest it will go and i still had to trim the fan as for the water bottle didn't have to touch that...its a pretty big job cutting and shaving the reo and front bar but worth it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3444317
Share on other sites

There's no major side effects to trimming the fan? It's spins awfully fast and can unbalance easily no?

naa not giving me any problems at all....i will pull it off one day and tidy it up as i just cut the blades with side cutters without taking it off the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3444360
Share on other sites

ahh right... well if i end up trimming the blades i might sand paper them down slowly and shape them so it looks normal

i was thinkink when i take it off i'll make some sort of template so i can get them all exactly the same length

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3444379
Share on other sites

I would say if you had more time to go to Platinum Performance in Sydney, they did my Hybrid Tube n Fin plus installation for $700.. what a bargain! :blink: .. then again it was at the end of the financial year, dont know if they would chrge different now, but they were awesome! even drove me like 15kms to the shops and picked me up when my car was ready :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191256-fmic/#findComment-3444483
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...