Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, firstly, never ever ever leave your parkers unplugged from your headlight for a couple of days. I did (waiting to get time to go up and get a replacement bulb), and somehow water managed to get into the headlight... and now, it fogs up constantly (with water on the inside of the lens cover), and also it's cleaned the inside of the headlight, so the one that fogs up is now crystal clear (when you can see past the condensation), and the other one has a very slight yellow tinge. You can imagine how annoyed I am about all this.

Anyway, although i'm going to try and take the lens cover off my headlights (using an oven etc), just wondering if that doesn't work, where can I source new R33 S3 GTR headlights from? They have to be zenon... I have all the hid parts etc

(yes I don't imagine they'll be cheap but the fogging is pissing me off)

So pissed off lol, the headlights were perfect as a week ago...

Edited by TommO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192200-where-to-buy-r33-s3-gtr-headlights/
Share on other sites

Hahahahhaha this would annoy the crap out of you being such a perfectionist with cars.

I suggest the usual places, but they will take all your coin the moots.

JustJap & other jap spares places.

Possibly Nissan themselves - lube up before you ask for a price there though.

Hahahahhaha this would annoy the crap out of you being such a perfectionist with cars.

I suggest the usual places, but they will take all your coin the moots.

JustJap & other jap spares places.

Possibly Nissan themselves - lube up before you ask for a price there though.

Yeah man, I'm perfectionist when it comes to cars (as you know haha), so this frustrates the hell out of me.. everytime I look at it I get teh shits lol

I'll give justjaps a go, and eventually try Nissan themselves. Anyone happen to have a part number? I was hoping it might be cheaper as I already have the HID components etc, just need the actual glass and plastic backing. Most likely not though

Yeah man, I'm perfectionist when it comes to cars (as you know haha), so this frustrates the hell out of me.. everytime I look at it I get teh shits lol

I'll give justjaps a go, and eventually try Nissan themselves. Anyone happen to have a part number? I was hoping it might be cheaper as I already have the HID components etc, just need the actual glass and plastic backing. Most likely not though

Give me a VIN and I can FAST it for you..... wont be for a till tomorrow though,

Could ask in the VIN's you want FASTed thread for a quicker response.

gday mate,

well my lenses r screwed as well with that yellow tinge, so i was doing a bit of homework and there is heaps of these joints around

http://www.skyetrading.com/services.aspx

i called him a while back, i cant remember if it is $170 per headlight changeover, or $170 both headlights changeover.

if ur in vic give him a try, if ur not theres bound to be someone near ya.

worst case $340, beats 2k..

good luck

gday mate,

well my lenses r screwed as well with that yellow tinge, so i was doing a bit of homework and there is heaps of these joints around

http://www.skyetrading.com/services.aspx

i called him a while back, i cant remember if it is $170 per headlight changeover, or $170 both headlights changeover.

if ur in vic give him a try, if ur not theres bound to be someone near ya.

worst case $340, beats 2k..

good luck

That site looks awesome mate - thanks! I didn't think there'd be a company that does this kinda stuff!

I just spoke to them and it's $150 + GST per unit... that includes taking them apart, polishing, new seals etc etc. 2 days turnaround for the work + shipping time.

Pretty good deal, I'll get both done and they'll look brand new (the non - buggered one looks awesome at the moment but I'd prefer if they matched spot on)

Can you please let me know how you go with this mob, I've got S3 headlights in my S2 (not setup as xenon units, just normal headlights) and they have a yellowish tinge on the inside and the overall appearance is slightly milky and cloudy, they aren't as bad as some I've seen, but I'd like them crystal clear and schmick.

I'd have a go myself, as I have done the oven thing with some civic headlights, but I don't want to risk ruining these as they would be damn hard to find and cost a fortune!

Where are you located? Can you let me know the complete cost and turn-around time and if you are happy with the outcome?!?

Thanks

Michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...