Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, im from the states and i need of a bit of help with my r33. ive checked the turbo, its good in working order, i just changed plugs and checked gaps for each. the car runs super rich about 9-10 a/f at low throttle just cruising, however at WOT the car leans out as it builds boost and jerks violently. also if i hold the throttle about half way it will build about 3 or 4 pounds and feels as if im brake boosting, suction from the intake/turbo is loud but no acceleration without the jerking. but as soon as i punch it it knocks and flips out. i changed plugs again and no help also checked vacuum sources and double tripple checked everything. im at a loss. there are no check engine lights. 127km on the car and motor. also car reacts the same way with the boost controller on or off.

mods include:

pod filter

front mount

turbo back exhaust

greddy profec boost controller at .6 bar

afc neo with decel at 1% throttle, 1.2 at 1000 and 3.8 at 2000. no tune.

thank you all for your help.

Edited by Jbunn2001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192259-rb25det-acting-strange-help/
Share on other sites

ive only experianced this once. and im sure you've probably checked i i found i tiny hole in the intake pipe just after the cooler... was fine cruising... hit the throttle and yeah feels like break boost then WACK and big jerk of the car.

replaced the silicone hose no problem from there on.

ill try that again, maybe i over looked something. also for an update i just drove the car after i did nothing...... lol and it hiccupped a few times and was maintaining boost, but i ran ass rich this time all the way through only hit 12.2 after the hiccup then back down to 9.9- 10.3. so im thinking of a few things i need to address.

Coils.... ive already ghetto taped mine hoping they wouldnt arch

AFM- but i would assume i would have a check engine light

or... i stilll dunno.

i will check the intercooler piping and change the silicone cupplers and get some propper t-bolts.

thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...