Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is this price right lube mobile quoted me $900 to $1000 to change turbo coolant hose and change thermostat and put new coolant in

also is this the turbo coolant hose it the one with the holes in it

Edited by CHUCKIE821
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192909-r33-turbo-coolant-line-help/
Share on other sites

No idea what mechanics normally charge for that, but i reckon that's a rip off mate. Go get another qoute from someone else.

New coolant change is bugger all. Thermostat wouldn't be more than $50, unless it's like a Nismo item or something. Now for the hose im not sure, but hell a braided line with fittings would only be like $150-$200. So all up i would say around $400 max with labor, depending how they go about changing the turbo coolant line, assuming they take the turbo off it may be a bit more.

But yeah, i still reckon $900 is a rip off, atleast i wouldn't be paying that much.

Hope that helps ;)

i used generic straight hose for that rear water feed from the plenum to the hard line that goes behind the head.

as for thermostat - that can be done by yourself if you are willing. remove bottom rad hose - 3 bolts for the housing. then pry out old thermostat - put sealant on new thermo and put bolts back in.

do a search for a the coolant system bleeding process and follow that - there you go, done for half a day and under $100

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...