Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make:Mazda

Model:Cosmo

Milage:78,000

Colour:Blue

Location:Sydney, North

RWC supplied?n/a

Currently registered?Y

Price:$21000 or open to trade for GTR (32/33) with cash either way

Contact: PM or [email protected]

Comments / Modifications:

<edit> Price Drop to $21K - Includes Work Wheels (worth $3K)

I've just started a new job and the Cosmo is not practical for me (either is the S12). So I need to sell (or trade) the beast.

I've had the car for about 2 years - bought it from the bloke that originally imported it. When I got it, it was totally stock. Now, not so stock.

I've spent way over $50K on this car and I know I won't get it back - so my loss is your gain.

For those that don't know:

JC Cosmo 1990

20B, ECCS model

Motor rebuilt by Race Solutions < 5000kms ago - Race Spec internals

HKS T04Z Turbo

HKS GT2 Wastegate

1600 cc/pin secondary injectors

DMRH FM Intrecooler

Oil Cooler - with GREX S/W plate inc thermostat

B&M Tranny Cooler

MV Autos - Stage 2 Race transmission

Haltec E11V2 ECU - tuned by Hitman

K-Sport Coil Overs

K-Sport 8 piston calipers, 330mm slotted rotors

Sard BOV

Custom Air box

Work Wheels - 18"

Pioneer Stereo (HU) ipod USB i/f - Response Amps and Speakers, JBL Sub

4.5" Exhaust with SMB Mufflers and Cat (Best money can buy)

Dual Walbro 255l/h fuel pumps

Wideband O2 Sensor and guage

Boost, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Guages, Nokia Blue Tooth handsfree

I'm sure I have left some other stuff off too - can't think......

This is an extremely fast car - the gear changes are savage (quick)

Currently running 10 PSI and has 450HP at the rears. Capable of 600 if the boost is increases. This is a genuine 10 second capable car - And I only say 'capable' as I haven't yet run it down the quarter mile.

There are some minor things that need attention.

* With the lowered suspension, the front wheel arches rubbed on the guards and some paint came off - I repaired the damage - but did a rough spray job in blue around the affected area to stop rust etc (the car is blue), as I had planned to get the guards repainted along with the boot (see next point).

* The boot was replaced (the original boot had a spoiler, which I didn't like plus has some rust in it from the spoiler install) the new boot is an ever so slightly different shade of blue - hardly noticeable. The original boot comes with the car too.

Price - I'll take offers around the $25K mark - I have no idea how much the car is worth as I have spent sooooo much money on it. Also open to trades (looking for a stock, rear/all wheel drive, manual, sporty looking car of some type - perhaps a GTR or something)

NO TEST PILOTS PLEASE - Genuine buyers only !

Contact via PM or b-man(at)skylinesaustralia(dot)com

Mobile: 0402 030 038

Images:

rs1.jpg

page0-1003-full.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193168-mazda-cosmo-20b-sold/
Share on other sites

For those who have asked:

Motor is fully dowelled, race seals, springs, extended port, S6 Exhaust Sleeves, etc

Wastegate is 60mm

Stall Converter is about 3000 RPM - perfect for boosted launches.

Daily Drivability - You will beat most every car on the street. Daily driving is fine. It's a bit loud - not Peripheral Port loud - but loud enough to set car alarms off in car parks. The stally drives well, you can still creep along, but when you out the foot down the revs go up pretty quick.

Fuel Economy - With 3 x 550cc/min (pri) and 3 x 1600cc/min injectors (sec) - you work it out. (ask any GTR owner that has 6 x 1000cc/min injectors and turbo that support this)

I have an Audi a4 quattro wagon, I would swap for your car if you want. it is a 98 2.6 v6 manual awd, "motor sport" edition. features factory lowered suspension, factory body kit and 16" alloys. It has a 5 speed manual, and is dark blue. mileage is high at 214000, but has a full has been very well maintained and still drives like a new car.

I also own a mitsubishi rvr sports gear. its an awd turbo 5 speed and has done 159000 km.

Both cars are for sale, so if you are interested, we can come to an arrangement.

The cars are both at sunshine coast, Queensland.

  • 2 weeks later...

Price Drop to $21K - Does not include Work wheels anymore - but does include 2 x 18" BA Falcons wheels on front and 2 x 16" 300ZX wheels on read. Rears are shod with Mickey Thompson 255 ET street slicks (legal on the road).

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

im in melbourne

id be intersted in a swap i have r32 gtr its in the forsale section dude.

it needs some love but there would be cash your way.

any chance of a roady as well

cheers

Trade for XR5T + cash my way??

15,000ish kms.

Also is your car maual or auto?

Seriously interested

+ Photos of the boot + interior + the pannels with diff paint thanks.

Edited by UNTS-1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...