Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I have done a lot of searching and reading but there is not much information reguarding results with GT** turbos, mostly discussion is about the HKS items.

I dont have a turbo I sold it as I was gonna do a rb25 turbo but i have decided to do the lot and have taken my car off the road.

I really want to hear your imput on the differences between the GT25/28 and different driveability. The GT25 is rated @ 400hp and I was told it will make 250kw@wheels, but @ what boost? I was looking for around 220-230kw@wheels to be daily driven and maybe wind it up a bit for the strip. I have a Wolf 3D V4 with hand controller.

To be able to fit the GT25 to my car I was quoted the following. $100 for the adapter plate welded to old manifold, $250 for 3" dump ($300) if i want a screamer and $220 for the lines(braided). Is this a good price? It was from Ricol Performance.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanx

Evan

P.S. I will have a cooler, fuel, etc to run the numbers... no comments on how its not just a turbo that will get me power :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19428-what-turbo-for-my-rb20det-buildup/
Share on other sites

Evan,

I have only been in a RB20 with 2530, not 2835, so I wont comment on the latter.

the car in quesion put down about 230rwkw at 1.2 bar, came on boost quicly and pulled hard through to red line of 8200rpm. these turbos apparently hit peak efficiency at 1.5-1.7bar, so there would be a bit left. It was a drift car, so boost came on pretty hard.

With regard to fitting, the 2530 can come in a t3 form that will bolt straight up to a stock manifold (as it was on the above), so adaptor plate shouldnt be necessary. $250 seems pretty cheap for a dump. $220 for braided lines is pretty good to.

BTW, I have seen a 2530 second hand recoed, with polised comp housing and braided lines, wastegate, t3 flange for under 2k - which is cheaper than a high flow, and therefore IMO are pretty bloody good value for money.

yeh,

I think a 2530 would be great but I am a bit sceptical buying a second hand turbo from japan. There is one at hikari for $1780 with a t3 flange although in the pic I cant see hks on the turbo so i think it is a garrett item... anyone can confirm?

2530 sounds perfect for what I want and I would buy a second hand one if the condition was known.

Evan

Evan

i would go 2540.. if you want more hp later.. which im sure you will :D.. you could get a xtr or what ever equilavent and get them to build it to your specs.. the only real good thing about hks turbos over their garret base is that they come into their own world when boost is increased.. if you only wanna run 1.0 bar i would stick with something garret produce, the hks badge adds about 600-1000bux! you could get the same exhaust housing the 2530 uses (same size a/r ratio or what ever) and then put on a bigger compressor housing to get a quick boost response/spool up and with the bigger compressor housing it will flow a bit more at the top.. talk to a turbo specialist about your wants and needs.. you could end up happier..

water connections are usually pretty easy to souce, somewhere like enzed, or pritec? (i think). Without knowing what trim the wheel is, might be a bit hard to guesstamate.

What did they tell you it was capable of when you bought it? Did they tell you it is a straight fit?

i have opted to go with a gt25, i am undecided on if i should go the 400hp or 440hp model, i realise an adapter plate will be around $100. The 440hp model is only like $100 cheaper... but will be laggier? will the 400hp model support 250kw@wheels... i am undecided... i have been told the 440hp model will hit full boost around 3500rpm as i know someone who has one on a ca18 and it hits full boost at 4100rpm

thanx

evan

You will be pushing to be hitting full boost at 3500rpm.

A RB25DET turbo hits full boost by 3500rpm, you will be most probably be looking at the positive side of 4000rpm for full boost with any turbo that makes decent power on the RB20DET.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...