Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I have done a lot of searching and reading but there is not much information reguarding results with GT** turbos, mostly discussion is about the HKS items.

I dont have a turbo I sold it as I was gonna do a rb25 turbo but i have decided to do the lot and have taken my car off the road.

I really want to hear your imput on the differences between the GT25/28 and different driveability. The GT25 is rated @ 400hp and I was told it will make 250kw@wheels, but @ what boost? I was looking for around 220-230kw@wheels to be daily driven and maybe wind it up a bit for the strip. I have a Wolf 3D V4 with hand controller.

To be able to fit the GT25 to my car I was quoted the following. $100 for the adapter plate welded to old manifold, $250 for 3" dump ($300) if i want a screamer and $220 for the lines(braided). Is this a good price? It was from Ricol Performance.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanx

Evan

P.S. I will have a cooler, fuel, etc to run the numbers... no comments on how its not just a turbo that will get me power :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19428-what-turbo-for-my-rb20det-buildup/
Share on other sites

Evan,

I have only been in a RB20 with 2530, not 2835, so I wont comment on the latter.

the car in quesion put down about 230rwkw at 1.2 bar, came on boost quicly and pulled hard through to red line of 8200rpm. these turbos apparently hit peak efficiency at 1.5-1.7bar, so there would be a bit left. It was a drift car, so boost came on pretty hard.

With regard to fitting, the 2530 can come in a t3 form that will bolt straight up to a stock manifold (as it was on the above), so adaptor plate shouldnt be necessary. $250 seems pretty cheap for a dump. $220 for braided lines is pretty good to.

BTW, I have seen a 2530 second hand recoed, with polised comp housing and braided lines, wastegate, t3 flange for under 2k - which is cheaper than a high flow, and therefore IMO are pretty bloody good value for money.

yeh,

I think a 2530 would be great but I am a bit sceptical buying a second hand turbo from japan. There is one at hikari for $1780 with a t3 flange although in the pic I cant see hks on the turbo so i think it is a garrett item... anyone can confirm?

2530 sounds perfect for what I want and I would buy a second hand one if the condition was known.

Evan

Evan

i would go 2540.. if you want more hp later.. which im sure you will :D.. you could get a xtr or what ever equilavent and get them to build it to your specs.. the only real good thing about hks turbos over their garret base is that they come into their own world when boost is increased.. if you only wanna run 1.0 bar i would stick with something garret produce, the hks badge adds about 600-1000bux! you could get the same exhaust housing the 2530 uses (same size a/r ratio or what ever) and then put on a bigger compressor housing to get a quick boost response/spool up and with the bigger compressor housing it will flow a bit more at the top.. talk to a turbo specialist about your wants and needs.. you could end up happier..

water connections are usually pretty easy to souce, somewhere like enzed, or pritec? (i think). Without knowing what trim the wheel is, might be a bit hard to guesstamate.

What did they tell you it was capable of when you bought it? Did they tell you it is a straight fit?

i have opted to go with a gt25, i am undecided on if i should go the 400hp or 440hp model, i realise an adapter plate will be around $100. The 440hp model is only like $100 cheaper... but will be laggier? will the 400hp model support 250kw@wheels... i am undecided... i have been told the 440hp model will hit full boost around 3500rpm as i know someone who has one on a ca18 and it hits full boost at 4100rpm

thanx

evan

You will be pushing to be hitting full boost at 3500rpm.

A RB25DET turbo hits full boost by 3500rpm, you will be most probably be looking at the positive side of 4000rpm for full boost with any turbo that makes decent power on the RB20DET.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...