Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just rewmoved my bleed valve and need to go back to stock boost so i can drive the car... i have one hose coming from what is a pipe underneath my intercooler piping on the left side of the engine (facing the car's front end)... one from the intercooler piping itself and on form the turbo's actuator (i think that what the gold drum thingy is)

and i have the stock boost solenoid which has two connectors and electrical wires coming from it.. so where does each tube go.. dont want no overboostin lol

cheers...yup that helps lots. Is useful i think for others too who might not know what it is ;)

Are those wires blue w/ white stripe and white? I have an orphan plug sitting around, just wondering whether its the same one. Does it require power or is it fully neumatic?

hmmm.. well i have the solenoid in place.. From those photos it appears the bottom hose from the solenoid is going to the wastegate, where as the top hose is to the throttle intake? So all should be fine right?

Unfortunately its not, when i connected it like that infinite boost..it just kept going up and up until about 12psi till i backed it off ;)

There is also a blocked outlet on my (stock) BOV return pipe where it goes back to the turbo, so maybe the top hose is meant to go there? Although the pressure should be pretty much the same shoudlnt' it and make little difference?

I mean i can "cheat" and just connect the intake direct to the wastegate and it will hold correct boost (which i'm doing for running around) but its for an EPA so the solenoid needs to be connected (i think?)

Anybody ?? Quicksmart? if anybody has a standard boost solenoid can they jump out to their car and have a close look plz?

Hi,

The bottom line on the solenoid goes to the T piece that in turn goes to the wastegate actuator (where your bleed valve probably is).

The top line on the solenoid goes back off into the BOV return line. As I recall, it's under the air piping that leads into the turbo inlet.

The striped wire (to the right of the plug) is a constand 13.5 volts

The solid colour wire (the left of the plug) is a negative trigger controlled by the ECU to open the solenoid.

The solenoid is fully electric.

line goes from high pressure side of the intercooler to the waste gate, then a "t" piece, the "T" peice runs a hose the the boost control solenoid, then from there to the hose that runs from the standard BOV to the low pressure side, (between turbo and AFM).

ok.. well i got it all sorted the other night..the key is the t-piece between the intake side and the wastegate - the stock solenoid hangs off that, and its different to my EBC configuration where it sits in between. Now rises to a solid 7psi

In the aid of providing a useful resource, i've posted a couple of pix of how I installed it

All was inspected and passed by the EPA correctly :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...