Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What kind of steering wheel is it? You can get HKB boss kits from J-Shop. They are compatible with Momo and Nardi. Not sure about others, but will probably work. Just ask. Also, you need an airbag specific one. Its a bit tricky to change it all. If you get stuck, send me a PM. I've changed a couple of steering wheels now :worship:

Word of warning... when you are pulling your stock wheel off, it feels like its stuck. You have to pull really hard (seriously!!!) To avoid injury, such as black eyes or broken cheek bones, put the nut back on the steering column about three turns. That way when the steering wheel suddenly gives way, it doesn't fly off into you face, but rather stops against the nut :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3496789
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the Nismo wheels have the same bolt pattern as Nardi. The HKB boss should be fine. When you go get it, just pull it out the box and test fit your wheel to see if they line up with the holes. There are two sets of holes, so make sure you line it up with the correct ones. There is a little arrow on the boss that indicates the upward direction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3499074
Share on other sites

Just get a HKB kit. I'm very happy with mine and its good quality. The last thing you want is the steering wheel coming of in your hands while your driving. I know someone who has had that experience... scared the crap out of him :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3509567
Share on other sites

Hey skyryan... it didn't come off the shaft. The little skrews that hold the wheel to the boss stripped their thread somehow. The steering wheel was in his hands and the boss kit still on the shaft. He had to slow down while grabbing the boss kit to steer with. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3511093
Share on other sites

Karlos... to get the airbag wheel off is easy. There are two plastic covers on each side of the steering wheel. Remove the covers and unskrew the bolts. They are extremely tight and require a six pointed star type key to undo. The HKB boss kits supply this key. When these are out you can lift the airbag part out. Just need to unplug the wires. After this, there is just the main nut on the steering shaft that you need to lossen. Once this is off, pull the steering wheel as hard as you can to get it off. Its a good idea to leave the steering shaft nut on about three turns because the steering wheel will give way and hit you in the face otherwise. Now you just need to wire it all up and put on your new steering wheel. There are two options for wires. One will short the horn out and it will be constantly going. This is the wrong option. The other shorts out the air bag sensor. This is the one you want. If you run into any serious trouble... send me a PM :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3511107
Share on other sites

Well I've got an R34, and Alistair kindly informed me that I'm going to be constantly bothered with my airbag light if I put on my new wheel, he said that R33 bosses should be fine on the R34 though...

So, what goes chaps?

Worth changing wheel? How can I get that airbag light off without snipping cables? Will teh R33 boss fit??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3513926
Share on other sites

There is a plug that has three wires going into it. One is the positive side of the horn. The negative side of the horn is the metal surround of the boss kit.

The other two wires are for the air bag. The plug supplied with the HKB boss kit bridges these two wires. This turns off the airbag light, so you don't snip any cables. They are just bridged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3513941
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...