Jump to content
SAU Community

Need To Whats A Good Ehxuast System

geraus

By geraus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, well its been about a month now and i think im ready for the next level of modding my R33 GTST.. Well ive been researching on the fourms a for a while now and ive found that a few people have catback and some full.. I was wondering...Would you guys recommend me a good exhaust setup.. like turbo back... all the way with high flow car is ok? or bad.. i wana hear the goods and bads... I'd appreciate it if you guys would post up the goods and bads about your set ups... My plan is to have a full ehxuast all the way not to loud but... something good then my next mod would be a intercooler... Thanks so much guys.

Geraus Huynh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195428-need-to-whats-a-good-ehxuast-system/
Share on other sites
Baconer Grand Master

Baconer

Posted
Posted

What bads? as long as you dont go something ridiculously over 4" turbo back I cant see anyhing causing a problem (except for noise)

Free(er) flowing exhaust is a good thing, exhaust gases are leaving the engine faster.

If you dont want a lot of noise then the Trust PEII is probably a good option, 3" pipe and only barely over legal limit. Fujitsubo have a few that are quiet with good airflow aswell, stay away from the HKS high power silent, it is not silent :yes:

MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
Posted

The Magic cat is a good brand and try to aim for atleast 3inch or bigger as a minimun.

Also, get a split dump and front pipe - So the seperate wastegate pipe joins down nea the cat, this helps reduce any turbulence up the dump pipe end.

I have a trust system with two oval mufflers and it is very very quiet. So if you want silence go for two mufflers that are oval, but if you want it loud, go a single cannon.

have fun

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted

Heres a hint, try any of the car importers in town.

A lot of their stock comes into the country with good quality aftermarket exhausts, these exhaust are of no real value to them

as they need stock systems to comply their cars. What they do need is stock systems like yours..aproach one nicely and do a deal, it

should work out cheaper by a good $ or 2. I found a huge genuine nismo cat back and a titanium dump for mine some years back.

I've since changed the dump to a split. I think it cost me around $350 at the time fitted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...