Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

A very weird problem had just occured. i drive a r34 gt-t in automatic/tiptronic. i was driving down a slope when i started to notice that my car started spluttering. it was raining and i thought that some water had gotten into my intake so i just hit the accelerator harder. when i did that it spluttered more and started to stall. i pulled over and put it into neutral and just started to rev it out. put it back into drive and it just stalled. i tested out every gear and put it into reverse and it was fine. put it back into drive and it stalled again. gave it some revs in neutral and chucked it into drive and then stalled again.

all this resulted in me waiting 1.5 hours for a tow truck and then got charged $80 for a 5min ride :)

its at hills motorsports now and they are going to look at it tomorrow. hopefully it wont be too expensive. this is my 2nd incident regarding the rain....first was a misfiring/cant start issue.

any insight or information would be greatly appreciated!

cheers!

being auto, and you said it works ok in nuetral and reverse, my guess would be the isolator/safety switch that wont let you start the car in gear?

Im no expert, but its just an idea. maybe its got a loose connection or exposed wire somewhere

do you have an aftermarket vent to atmosphere BOV?

nope...bov in standard position

One would think its electrical, if it only occurs in the rain. Have you changed anything recently? Do you have a vented bonnet? CAI? Try checking error codes.

no vented bonnet. the mechanics seem to think thats its electrical but still not sure yet. no cai.

if it's rain related, it must be water getting in to something.

Vented Bonnet = spark plug swimming pool

fully sick pod filter in front bar = wet muff .. sorry.. I mean wet MAF.

im not so sure if its just a coincidence with the rain that my car always seems to break down on. but yea last time i had the spark plug swimming pool incident regarding it so no vented bonnet. also my pod is at the standard position where my airbox use to be.

being auto, and you said it works ok in nuetral and reverse, my guess would be the isolator/safety switch that wont let you start the car in gear?

Im no expert, but its just an idea. maybe its got a loose connection or exposed wire somewhere

no idea.. its not that it wont start in gear..u cant start autos in gear.. it just keeps stalling in gear thats all except for reverse which is weird.

thanks everyone :D

i just heard back from the mechanics. he plugged the scanner on and it didnt show up with an error code. he says that its either mechanical or theres a problem with the ecu.

just wondering if anyone else has had this problem before??

finally got a word back today after a whole week of it sitting in storage. he had told me that the computer was not giving out any power. power was going in but not coming out so he sent it away to get it tested.

does this sound right to anyone?

if the computer didnt work then the car wouldnt start right?

don't get it repaired.

buy another stock auto ecu from wreckers or these forums.

cost a fraction of repair..

but you're right.

the ecu controlls everything including the auto box.

so if it was faulty, it wouldn't run at all.

I don't know muuch about auto's, but there must be something that controls idle when in gear.

just like when the air con is on etc..

yea just got word back from mechanics couple days ago.

the 1,2 shift valve solenoid has failed. this means that when drive is selected, 1st and 2nd gear both comes on at the same time. now im just patiently waiting for the part to come in. im a little annoyed as he promised to have my car ready 2 days ago but he had ordered the wrong part for my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...