Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering Wheel Turns To Left

YoungLine
 Share

Recommended Posts

YoungLine Apprentice

YoungLine

Posted
Posted

Ive got an annoying problem with my steering wheel turning to the left on its own..

i have searched the forum and the only thing i found is that it can be the wheel alignment, now im not to familiar with wat all those settings mean hoping sum1 can help me.

Now my steering rack had a leak in it so i had that replaced and a wheel alignment had been done.. and now the car pulls to the left no matter wat speed im going at wich is very anoying, whats more annoying is it pulls harder when i brake... wen i brake to a full stop the steering wheel can swing 45 degrees to the left on its own, so im constantly driving with my car pulling to the left, can some1 have a look at my allignment settings that i have attached and spot anything wrong cos i dont quiet understand it. Oh and i also had new tyres put on at the same time.

thanks

post-37119-1196246158_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195591-steering-wheel-turns-to-left/
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

who did it? IF i am reading this right, Your Right Castor is 4deg Greater than your left, And your RHF Camber is .49 lower than the left.

To compensate for the road, .25deg LESS positive caster on the right than the left is preferable, and .5Deg less Neg camber on the right than the left, with toe being equal. Same Rule applies for the rear with Camber, and equal 1mm toe in should help turn in.

You could take your car to GT-Suspension or Centreline if you are lazy, BUT I HIGHLY reccommend Traction Tyres in Rowville(10mins from the wellington rd exit of the monash) 9764 2811

I also recommend trackside in Kilsyth: Craig 9761 5557

-Ryan

swanny180 Proficient

swanny180

Posted
Posted

Does your 33 have any non factory adjustable suspension arms?

Because your camber and castor are greatly different between your left and right wheels, but you cant adjust these settings with the factory components.

They have adjusted toe like they should (stock toe rods can be adjusted), but yeah...

Has your car been in a front end accident at any point? Seems weird the settings would be out by so much?

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

The pull is due to the caster difference. If you don't have aftermarket arms that are way out of adjustment, then you have a shot caster rod bush on one side atleast and should get them replaced.

as noted above, you cant adjust either caster or camber (on the front) from factory and they aren't that far out from factory.

To be honest even the dumbest alignment guy should have noticed a caster difference like that and pointed out that there is a problem.

And i disagree with ryan re the different settings side to side. From a performance point of view it is the wrong approach, from a tyre wear point of view it is great on a freeway where the old 3% crossfall mind set is still in force, but on most new local roads it isn't relevant anymore either.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I'm with BHDave, there is something wrong and they should have told you. Your left front toe was rooted before hand so they should have asket why

Caster is clearly stuffed, unless you have aftermarket arms you probably have a bent lower control arm. And your rear toe is so uneven it is dangerous - but it looks like they just measured it and didnt set it.

take the print out back, get them to explain why rear toe settings are what they are, and why your castor is so uneven a the front.

Potenza Apprentice

Potenza

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would say the huge toe reading is from replcing the rack before the wheel alignment. The tyre wouldn't have lasted an hour with 23mm odd of toe.

The pull is coming from the huge difference in caster and also the difference in rear toe wouldn't be helping. I think you need to take it to someone who knows what the hell they are doing and start replacing parts as i think there may be something bent.

Edited by Potenza
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
The pull is due to the caster difference. If you don't have aftermarket arms that are way out of adjustment, then you have a shot caster rod bush on one side atleast and should get them replaced.

as noted above, you cant adjust either caster or camber (on the front) from factory and they aren't that far out from factory.

To be honest even the dumbest alignment guy should have noticed a caster difference like that and pointed out that there is a problem.

And i disagree with ryan re the different settings side to side. From a performance point of view it is the wrong approach, from a tyre wear point of view it is great on a freeway where the old 3% crossfall mind set is still in force, but on most new local roads it isn't relevant anymore either.

Thanks for clearing it up dave! :P

Equal for handling, my alignment on my daily is a compromise between tyrewear and handling, and considering i drive on a lot of average roads, those differences are perfect for me.

-Ryan

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
Posted

The attached document with the steering settings is gobligook to me. I know I'm probably wrong, but have you checked your tyres :P? I only say this because a friend had both tyres on one side of his car let down, and then he couldn't figure out why his car was pulling to one side, silly bastard. The person also keyed a swastika on his roof.

So yeah... check your car for umm.. swastikas and flat tyres. Lol.

YoungLine Apprentice

YoungLine

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It was all done at the tyre factory.

The car hasnt been in an accident before, and there are no aftermarket parts.

Can u guys judge from a pic if the bushes r wrecked cos i took a pic of the left rod.

Umm so if it needs changing would it be more beneficial for me 2 just get aftermarket bushes or a set of rods.

and how do i go about fixing the rear toe does that require aftermarket parts also or just a decent alignment?

ill try getting my car down 2 traction tyres soon just have no money atm

post-37119-1196850247_thumb.jpg

Edited by YoungLine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...