Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dam you all i get 350km around town in tassie, no matter how i drive, and not much better on the high way.

That suggests that the parts of your fuel map you use during light cruise are too rich. Get rid of that central20 ecu and get something adjustable.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Changed over the fuel filter today, and it was filthy. As I shook out the excess, the fuel that came out was a really dark brown, yuck! Also changed the spark plugs and gave the air filer (pod) a bit of a clean.

Car seems to be running a fair bit smoother now, particularly on idle. Cant really tell if its drinking less yet, but will report back.

(Also changed windscreen wipers, easy another 10-20rw/kw now. :domokun:)

i get 25-35% more KM's from a tank on the fwy, with a 10yo O2 sensor... What oil are you using(my 25 loves Fuch's 10w30)? All filters done? Plugs gapped right? TIRE PRESSURES? i have mine at 40psi after a 2km drive then lower them for spirited driving to help tire wear/economey, that is on 225/50/16's.

I get about 400km's on my r34 before the fuel light comes on. Then when i fill up to the top i only seem to be puttin in around 50litres. I believe 34's have a 65litre tank? therefore when my fuel lights turns on i should still have around 15litres left.

Most driving is done in the city and i always seem to give it a bit here and there :D

I changed my 02 sensor recently.

Will be doing an oil change soon.

How much to replace fuel filter?

I get about 400km's on my r34 before the fuel light comes on. Then when i fill up to the top i only seem to be puttin in around 50litres. I believe 34's have a 65litre tank? therefore when my fuel lights turns on i should still have around 15litres left.

Most driving is done in the city and i always seem to give it a bit here and there :D

I changed my 02 sensor recently.

Will be doing an oil change soon.

How much to replace fuel filter?

less then $10 from supercheap

My tires are at 34psi all around, will pump them up to 38-40 and see how the fuel goes, not expecting much but you never know.

Also in the new year I plan to get an full road tune with a wideband, which I have been told will make a big difference in economy.

  • 3 weeks later...

My RB30DET is making a shade under 270rwkw and still gets 450km's to a tank (50L) with the odd squirt; no free way driving; all local 60-80km/h shortish (30km one way max) drives. Every time I accelerate off at the lights I'm always ahead of the traffic but not pushing it; only just slightly on to boost with light throttle and changing up at around 2500-3000rpm.

I had mine tuned for the o2 sensor on and now with it disabled; absolutely no difference to economy.

Maybe its the R33's VCT thing as R33's tend to suffer from bad fuel economy a hell of a lot.

Must suck to own an R33/RB25DET. >_< Sorry gotta rub it in. :dry:

Not mine Joel :D.

I get 400 - 450 km's to about 50 litres around town (400ish if I use the aircon a lot & drive it really hard). Fuel economy was terrible before I changed my O2 sensor which appeared to die from being removed from the stock dump & into the new one when I had my exhaust fitted. Was alright for a couple of weeks & then economy went out the window & the car was using about 15L/100km, after I changed the sensor it went down to under 12.

Another thing I've had cause my economy to drop was the thermostat, which when I pulled it out had a broken seal (standard 33 thermostats have a rubber seal to prevent any flow when cold). Never got up to temperature in winter & was chewing probably at least an extra 1 to 1.5 litres per 100 km from running too cold.

Cleaning the injectors I can personally vouch can make a big improvement if they are dirty. I used to do injector testing & sometimes when they'd come in they could be spraying a solid jet of fuel, which is no good for vapourisation. This would be an especially good idea if your fuel was rather dirty.

Pleanty of things to check.

Edited by J_Red33

^^ Yeah I was thinking the same thing about dirty injectors, and I've already purchased some S15 injectors which I'll install once cleaned and flowed.

I was going to get it all done this week, but after a light tap with a brick wall I have another thing to fix first.

I really like this thread because of stolen s15's avarter lol.

Seriously, does any 1 know what nissan's fuel economy claim was for the r33?? when you think about it tho, a turbo charged sports car with 4.11 diff ratios etc etc, having fuel economy around 12-13ltrs/100km isnt toooooooo bad.

then again if people are getting 500-550km out of a tank, i want to eat my left arm

I really like this thread because of stolen s15's avarter lol.

Seriously, does any 1 know what nissan's fuel economy claim was for the r33?? when you think about it tho, a turbo charged sports car with 4.11 diff ratios etc etc, having fuel economy around 12-13ltrs/100km isnt toooooooo bad.

then again if people are getting 500-550km out of a tank, i want to eat my left arm

I remember seeing specs a while back; it supposed to be around 10.5ltres per 100. My old rb20det used to get exactly that.

Yeah you just have to remember with that rating that's on a combined fuel cycle of city & highway driving.

Around town I chew no more than 12L per 100km as previously stated (got 11.73 on my fill today, & that was with the use of aircon), but if I do long country drives it'll hit the low 9's. Half way in between is about 10.5, so sounds about right :D

Edited by J_Red33

Well I dont think my coolant temp sensor is playing up because I can see the temp on my PFC controller, sits around 72deg after taking about 5 mins to warm up.

This weekend I'm going to get the car on a hoist and do an inspection of all the fuel tank/line area, even though RE customs has already checked this I'm almost at my wits end!

You still haven't had the road tune, and is your 72degrees correct????

Presuming your tuners haven't altered the PFc's settings, that means you'll be running between 5% and 10% rich on fuel.

Perhaps it needs a temp. sensor but the tuner should have picked that.

Useless "tuning" an ecu with incorrect inputs.

Edited by grigor

Cubes 72 degrees is too low? Damn! I do have a very large aftermarket aluminium radiator and breather tank setup, would that explain the lower temp?

Grigor just got back from holidays mate, trying to get the road tune sorted but I'm going to be installing bigger turbo/inj/afm soon so I dont want to do another tune (unless I can get it for free) just before I get the goodies in. Why would the 72deg be incorrect? Will have a check of the coolant sensor and give my tuner a call again.

Thanks for the help fellas, and keep the ideas coming.

Nick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...