Jump to content
SAU Community

Vortech's owner in troub, need urgent help: Where can you get an emission test in SA?

9krpm

By 9krpm,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted

A friend of mine is getting a Vortech SC kit for his car. He checked with registration who then referred him to Regency. :P

Regency requested a emission test result to be able to register the car!!!!! He has been quoted $4000 for the test in SA ;)

The kit on this car is exempted from emission control everywhere in the world. The kit has a placard attached to the supercharger stating so. The car is only 3 years old and set the world record for the lowest emission engine/exhaust system. Regency still would not register this car unless it has the test done in Australia.

What the hell is going on with the government? What is the fairness here? Does every car need a emission test if something is done to the car? Does LPG car need a emission test when LPG get installed?

Do you guys know of any other ways around this problem?

Could you guys tell me where Regency is and who work there?

Sil8ty Collaborator

Sil8ty

Posted
Posted

What car is it for?? I would suggest calling them, as most of the common kits have been EPA tested... Also speak with Tonkin and associates in Adelaide.. They are consulting engineers that i think do the testing for CAPA.. All you need to do, it the emmssions has been done on the kit by CAPA is to pass a noise test.. Not much at all $$$$...

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by SR910

A full drive cycle emissions test at mitsubishi motors is just upwards for $4,000.

Yes, this is what my friend told me too.

Is there any other place that carry out the test as well? Doe Holden in Elizabeth do this test?

Sil8ty Collaborator

Sil8ty

Posted
Posted

I would just ring CAPA, as i had to go through this with my Powerdyne kit when i lived W.A. All you have to do is a noise test.. As the kit for the 5.0L is already Emmissions compliant..

What Vortech do you have Is it the V2 (silent Vortech) as the normal V-1 S Trim may not pass..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...