Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: 300zx Twin Turbo Z32

Milage: 40,000kms

Transmission: manual

Colour: Dark Blue

Location: Victoria, Melbourne, dandenong

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? No

Currently registered? Yes, but will be sold without

Price: $6000

Contact: 0431 341 932

Comments / Modifications: Car has blown Head gasket. But has already had the upper plenum removed so that all that is needed is the heads to be removed. It will need a couple of things to get RWC the major ones being coolant reservoir, 3 new tyres, spray the front bar. other than that it definately goes hard with the twin turbo's. Im selling it as when i get my P's i wont be able to drive it.

I am willing to trade for an N/A sports car (or one which was converted from N/A to turbo and isnt reg'd as a turbo) of equal or similar value.

cheers

Images: Pics will be up soon

hey how long till you get your p's, willing to trade for a project car, 97 r33 turbo shell, with manual non turbo rb25de in it manual, still needs front windscreen, headlights front fenders, finish some wiring, radiator re-spray some tyres, a viv check as it was in an electrical fire and i repaired all the damage no structural damage only torch marks and melted plastic lol, has momo air bag steering wheel, and 17 X9's.

for an extra grand i could even throw in my daily, 1990 auto pulsar q, needs timing belt, waterpump n a driveshaft boot to pass roady. 11 months reg

hey how long till you get your p's, willing to trade for a project car, 97 r33 turbo shell, with manual non turbo rb25de in it manual, still needs front windscreen, headlights front fenders, finish some wiring, radiator re-spray some tyres, a viv check as it was in an electrical fire and i repaired all the damage no structural damage only torch marks and melted plastic lol, has momo air bag steering wheel, and 17 X9's.

for an extra grand i could even throw in my daily, 1990 auto pulsar q, needs timing belt, waterpump n a driveshaft boot to pass roady. 11 months reg

Hey there,

i get my P's in 2 weeks, so i would need a running car which is able/curently reg'd and RWC'd. thanks for the offer tho.

cheers marlon

i need a quick sale! i get my p's in two weeks! so im going to lower the price to $5500...which i think is a very reasonable price for a manual, Twin turbo z32.

hey man free bump, im still interested but cant find anyone to buy my 33, if ya no anyone who wants a project car let me know

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
×
×
  • Create New...