A31 Alignment Settings

[robots]

Looking for some grip/drift suspension alignment settings for a31.

Like distance from wheel center to the guard. Toe, Camber, Caster.

Maybe some suspension components advice ? Swaybars, spring rates.

I have stock suspension arms all around(accept for front S14 lower control arm for more track and camber), non adjustable(accept front camber, front toe, rear toe).

With Energy suspension bushings all around. I got coilovers all around 6/4kg spring rates.

I got pretty thick, but solid swaybars all around.

Car height: From wheel center to wheel guard. Front 330-340mm. Rear - 370mm.

I did alignment today, and I had nearly -3.5 camber on front left and -2.6 on the right side. Had to use coilover top camber plate to adjust camber.

Adjusted to ~-2.5 up front. Toe in was nearly 0 degrees. A bit negative. Don't remember the caster.

Rear camber was around -1.5 degrees, don't remember the toe. But it was a bit negative. Toe in it is

What tires I will use:

Grip: Dunlop 9000. 225/245 17 inch. on 8j/9rim for track work.

But I tend to think some 225 on 16inch 8j gtr rims all around will do better for track.

Drift: Anything I can find in the rear from 205 to 225. Front - 225.

What problems I've encountered so far when drifting:

I have hard time swinging the car effortlessly. I have 1way nismo diff. And in the S-bend. When I lift off the throttle I don't get any smooth transition. when I lift off, car wants to regain grip as soon as possible. Frustrating. I blame my 1 way for it. But who knows, maybe you guys have some more advices, tips or comments ?

Thanks!

[dangerous_daveo]

How thick are your sway bars? My front one is 30mm solid, and I feel its too thick, and is partly to blame for the outside of my front tyres getting scrubbed out.

[Sydneykid]

How thick are your sway bars? My front one is 30mm solid, and I feel its too thick, and is partly to blame for the outside of my front tyres getting scrubbed out.

That's not particularly logical, less roll (bigger swaybar) would mean less wear on the outside edge of the tyres. More logical would be insufficient caster and camber or excessive toe in.

Cheers

Gary

[Sydneykid]

Looking for some grip/drift suspension alignment settings for a31.

Like distance from wheel center to the guard. Toe, Camber, Caster.

Maybe some suspension components advice ? Swaybars, spring rates.

I have stock suspension arms all around(accept for front S14 lower control arm for more track and camber), non adjustable(accept front camber, front toe, rear toe).

With Energy suspension bushings all around. I got coilovers all around 6/4kg spring rates.

I got pretty thick, but solid swaybars all around.

Car height: From wheel center to wheel guard. Front 330-340mm. Rear - 370mm.

I did alignment today, and I had nearly -3.5 camber on front left and -2.6 on the right side. Had to use coilover top camber plate to adjust camber.

Adjusted to ~-2.5 up front. Toe in was nearly 0 degrees. A bit negative. Don't remember the caster.

Rear camber was around -1.5 degrees, don't remember the toe. But it was a bit negative. Toe in it is

What tires I will use:

Grip: Dunlop 9000. 225/245 17 inch. on 8j/9rim for track work.

But I tend to think some 225 on 16inch 8j gtr rims all around will do better for track.

Drift: Anything I can find in the rear from 205 to 225. Front - 225.

What problems I've encountered so far when drifting:

I have hard time swinging the car effortlessly. I have 1way nismo diff. And in the S-bend. When I lift off the throttle I don't get any smooth transition. when I lift off, car wants to regain grip as soon as possible. Frustrating. I blame my 1 way for it. But who knows, maybe you guys have some more advices, tips or comments ?

Thanks!

Swaybars, adjustable of course. 27mm front and 22 mm rear for grip, 26 mm rear for drift

Spring rates, 275 lbs/inch front and 225 lbs per/rear

Shocks, the best you can afford, Bilsteins are the best value for money (forget Jap shocks entirely)

Alignment settings;

Front

Height 345 to 355 mm

Toe = zero, if the turn in is a bit reluctant try up to 2 mm toe out each side, learn how much adjustment you get from each turn of the adjuster

Caster = as much as you can get for grip, around 7 degrees for drift

Camber = make sure you can adjust between 2.5 degrees negative and 4 degrees negative. Then use the pyrometer to tell you how much to run. Use the offset pins in the upright to get the 2.5 degrees negative, then the adjustable strut top for quick changes at the track.

Rear

Height = 340 to 350 mm, adjust the rear height to achieve the desired weight transfer to the front outside tyre

Toe = zero for grip, 3 mm toe out for drift, learn how much adjustment you get from each degree of rotation of the adjuster

Camber = make sure you can adjust between 1.5 degrees negative and 2.5 degrees negative. Then use the pyrometer to tell you how much to run for grip. Use the wear rates to tell you how much to run for drift. Quick adjustment of the rear offset bushes is essential.

Subframe angle = the "all round" setting for grip on the subframe alignment bushes, obviously the "drift" setting for drift.

Diff, a Nismo externally adjustable, 1.5 is the best considering the two disciplines, that way you can change the preload. You want the diff to unlock on turn in for grip, but not drift.

That should get you started.

Cheers

Gary

[dangerous_daveo]

That's not particularly logical, less roll (bigger swaybar) would mean less wear on the outside edge of the tyres. More logical would be insufficient caster and camber or excessive toe in.

Cheers

Gary

Cant dissagree with your logic, as its most probably correct.

But its got about 2* toe out, 5-6* castor, and about 1.5* camber... So we'll have to put it down to camber. Its going in for a wheel alinement on tuesday, so I'll get the settings you posted above done, see how I go with that.

That said, my logic was if the car cant roll, its gotta go somewhere, so if the car cant roll over a bit to lean on the tyre, it goes somewhere else, being to the edge of the tyre. So maybe its somewhat to do with tyre pressure too. I havent had much sleep this week tho, so it probably doesnt make sense to anyone else.

[Sydneykid]

Cant dissagree with your logic, as its most probably correct.

But its got about 2* toe out, 5-6* castor, and about 1.5* camber... So we'll have to put it down to camber. Its going in for a wheel alinement on tuesday, so I'll get the settings you posted above done, see how I go with that.

That said, my logic was if the car cant roll, its gotta go somewhere, so if the car cant roll over a bit to lean on the tyre, it goes somewhere else, being to the edge of the tyre. So maybe its somewhat to do with tyre pressure too. I havent had much sleep this week tho, so it probably doesnt make sense to anyone else.

Could also be worn bushes, particularly the lower inner. It won't hold the static alignment settings if they are worn.

Plus if its too low (less than 350 mm), it will have dynamic camber change ie; that negative you have static will dissapear when the suspension is compressed. I have seen too low R32GTR's actually go positive camber with only 60 mm of spring compression.

Cheers

Gary

[robots]

Gary, thanks for the input ! Now I have to read it a couple of times to understand whats going on

[dangerous_daveo]

Well I got mine done today, seems my issue was 6mm total toe out on the REAR. Also my front left camber adjustment, the nut is shagged or something so they were unable to adjust it, just no other place decided to tell me that. So its been sitting on -0.6* camber for the past 12 months... Which would explain a lot.